Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
After much lurking around here, it seems to be that the Epson C88+ (D88 in the UK) would be the best bet when it comes to inkjet transfers, however they seem quite aged and are hard to get hold round here, so i've been looking for more modern alternatives.
The Epson D120 seems like the 'evolution' of the D88, it uses Durabrite Ultra ink and is about the same price as a new D88 here. Although Epson say it's more of a document printer because of the 2 black carts.
Also, higher priced models use Claria ink, when printing on transfer paper is this better than Durabrite Ultra?
So I ask, would the D120 be my best bet?
Also hi! I'm Robin! I hope to stick around here alot longer and share my experiences in pressing T-Shirts ^___^
Yes, the C88 is a VERY common model around here, and would be fine for most people. I've heard that the 120 is a fine replacement for the C88. The only trouble that some people are having is that they're experiencing some color-shifting with the DURABrite inks. They're just not made for high-temperature applications like heat transfers. Some people are having those troubles, and some aren't.
I'd suggest getting a continuous ink system for any printer that you get, and when you do, you can get inks that were designed for heat transfers.
But also, 8.5x11 (or A4 in the UK) is a pretty limiting size. If you can afford it, I'd suggest getting a printer like the Epson 1400 or 1800 that will print 11x17 transfers (A3?). Be careful, tho...the 1400 uses dye-based inks which are NOT suitable for transfers. You would NEED a CIS with pigment inks for that printer. The 1800 uses pigment inks out of the box.
I have Epson R800, which is acting funky. There are horizontal striations, in particular for red ink. I've been troubleshooting, but to no avail. Am thinking about getting the R1800 but not finding it. Did it get replaced by R1900?
Hi Robin
I live in the U.K and I use an Epson D92. It has CMYK with durabrite. I have now converted it to a CIS system and pigment ink. The CIS system I got from Advanced Inkjet Systems.
The printer works very well as does the CIS.
Hope this helps
Pete.
I have an epson 1280 and a 3000. What kind of inks should I buy to make sure they work for heat transfer, I'm new at this and need to know what combinations work the best. Please advise. Thanks!
By the way that's the "thanked" area of my profile?
I have an epson 1280 and a 3000. What kind of inks should I buy to make sure they work for heat transfer, I'm new at this and need to know what combinations work the best. Please advise. Thanks!
By the way that's the "thanked" area of my profile?
Ken pigment inks are used for heat transfers. Some use oem pigment ink if available, others substitute third party pigment ink or ink advertised for heat transfers. Hope this helps.
Thanks Chet,
I really appreciate the response. I need to know what a good reliable low hassle ink is as well as heat transfer paper, I really don't want to go down the trial and error trail when others have the wisdom of their experience. We would like to do both pigmented in one printer and sublimation in another printer. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Ken
Ken, I use Mis Heat transfer ink. Others use stuff like Armur ink and various HT inks. Some use Epson brand pigment ink. If you intend on doing many prints you will probably want a bulk ink system. Search the web for bulk ink and you'll find various offers. It is dependent on your printer. Not everyone sells bulks for everything. Compare prices, refills, shipping, warranty, return policy, everything. If you find one you like ask about it in the forum. Bulk ink systems do require maintenance and regular printing, weekly if not daily. Sublimation is owned by Sawgrass in the U.S. They have Sublijet and Artanium. Search the Dye Sub forum for those. Four ounces of HT ink is around $30, dye sub ink around $140 for the same quantity. For paper most like JetPro Sofstretch for heat transfers, it is only for light colored shirts. Hope this helps.
Last edited by cbs1963; May 18th, 2008 at 08:22 PM.
Reason: content
I have 2 epson 1280's and two epson 3000's, however I don't mind buying a printer that works well hand in hand with a good ink and an easy to use bulk system. I have read that the 1280's have a few problems getting a bulk feed to work. all four of the printers are used and haven't been used for a long time and may have plugged print heads so rather than trying to spend a lot of time trying to unclog them I may just purchase new. I have heard a lot of people use epson c80? - c88?
Again I would appreciate feed back from any one who has a good thing working for them in all of these areas.
Again, thanks your your time and response.
I have 2 epson 1280's and two epson 3000's, however I don't mind buying a printer that works well hand in hand with a good ink and an easy to use bulk system. I have read that the 1280's have a few problems getting a bulk feed to work. all four of the printers are used and haven't been used for a long time and may have plugged print heads so rather than trying to spend a lot of time trying to unclog them I may just purchase new. I have heard a lot of people use epson c80? - c88?
Again I would appreciate feed back from any one who has a good thing working for them in all of these areas.
Again, thanks your your time and response.
Ken before you chunk those printers you could try a cleaning solution for clearing print heads. It comes in a bottle with a syringe, remove the carts, put some on the heads, let sit, reinstall carts and try again. I've given the short version, but if it made all of your printers work could save a lot of money. There are also cleaning cartridges as well. Search the web, Inksupply.com has some useful knowledge on the subject. I have a bulk ink supply for my 1280 worked fine. I am now after a year having to service the system by removing foam or air bubbles from the carts. The vendor informed me about this from the beginning, finally happened.
Last edited by cbs1963; May 19th, 2008 at 08:57 PM.
Reason: content
Thanks, I will look into getting them unclogged. Like I said, I would like to know the best ht paper, ink ect. in combination to get straight into production with the least amount of trial and error.
Good info I appreciate it Chet
Ken
Thanks, I will look into getting them unclogged. Like I said, I would like to know the best ht paper, ink ect. in combination to get straight into production with the least amount of trial and error.
Good info I appreciate it Chet
Ken
Well Ken, the forums really like JetPro Sofstretch, search the forum for info, for light shirts. For opaque it was Ironall Dark. However, recent complaints of fading have been discussed. Alfa Gold has been talked about as a good replacement. As with all things your results may vary. As for ink, an ink formulated for heat transfers is the choice for many. Some use pigment. It has been stated that some get dye ink to work with JPSS as well, I don't know. On most papers dye fades out fast.
I will check it all out.
Half the fun is getting to know all the "print terms" everybody uses, once the light comes on I go, "oh, yeah!, I get it! Duh "
Thanks
Ken
I will check it all out.
Half the fun is getting to know all the "print terms" everybody uses, once the light comes on I go, "oh, yeah!, I get it! Duh "
Thanks
Ken
I agree Ken, when I started in the forums I had no Idea what the texting short cuts meant. LOL, OMG, IMO, all seemed greek to me. You'll get it.