Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
Thanks for all the guidance a few days ago (Thread: Ironall dark looks lumpy after the wash and dry).
My original shirts were 100% cotton and not pre-shrunk. Of course, you were right - they shrunk in the wash, puckering my image! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
I did what I should be doing - I ordered 7 shirts from Alpha shirt for testing.
I ordered preshrunk 100% cotton and 50/50 cotton poly blend.
Used Ironall dark with Epson c88+ ink. Pressed with Mighty press lite at 360 for 15 seconds med/heavy pressure.
I washed them all in cold water and dried on low for 25 minutes - all looked very good to great after the first wash.
I'm not a laundry queen, neither are my friends and we will end up tossing these in and not changing to cold at some point - even if we read the directions and knew not to, so I thought I'd give them one more test:
I threw them all back in and RE-WASHED ALL IN WARM WATER and DRIED ON MEDIUM HIGH HEAT FOR 25 MINUTES!!
I was thinking I would kill most if not all of the shirts, but, all survived, and some acutally still looked awesome after the warm bath/med high heat dryer. One was heads above the rest, so I found my personal winner as my customers are kids, and that means busy moms doing laundry, needing to be able to mess up and use warm water sometimes and need to dry quick and have them look good right from the dryer. Here's a quick run down:
Remember, these results are after warm water wash and medium high heat dryer for 25 minute test results. None of these flaws existed after the cold water, low heat for 25 minute wash test. But in the real world, I would do a warm water wash in my house at some point because I would forget --or-- not notice the shirt in the pile at some point, so I wanted to see what a customer might see after that happens. I found my "shirt" because if it happens, I found at least two that can stand up to at least one warm water wash test.
50/50 Cotton Blend Shirts:
Gildan Ultra Blend 50/50 5.6 oz. is the best, most beautiful shirt in my test. Came out of the dryer with no change to the image area, no puckering, is still nice and flat. I hate to iron (ironic - I know) and this shirt is wearable straight from the dryer, very nice, no ironing needed, no wrinkles.
Hanes Heavyweight 50/50 blend 5.5 oz. is next. No notable difference in the image area, but there is the slightest light wrinkling overall. If Gildan is 100% A+, this is 98. No ironing needed, looks completely wearable straight from the dryer.
Jerzees Heavyweight Blend 5.6 oz. is next. No change to the image itself, but the shirt as a whole has tiny, small wrinkles overall, shirt and image. The cut and quality, look and feel of the shirt is appearance wise (IMHO) is a notch below the Gildan Ultra Blend.
Fruit of the Loom Best 50/50 5.4 oz. - the shirt has no wrinkles right from the dryer, but the image has light dents and creases.
100% Preshrunk cotton shirts:
Neither of these - being 100% cotton - did as well as the Gildan 50/50, but I can't get this shade of pink in anything but the gildan 100% preshrunk cotton, and I tested the anvil just to see:
Again, Gildans came out best. Gildan Ultra Cotton 6.1 oz (Alpha shirt - G240B) long sleeve. Great straight from the washer, No puckering in the image. Barely a change to the image area, but there is ever so slight a difference, not noticable unless scrutinizing the shirt for a change.
Anvil 5.4 oz 100% cotton preshrunk. Has a light overall wrinkle and the image is the has little creases and dents. The worst of the bunch in the warm water/med heat test. Also, for whatever reason, the anvil tag looks like a crumpled up gum wrapper. Not nice!
These are my results. Probably not necessary to post them, but I went through the time and expense, I thought I'd share them in the off chance someone, somewhere was interested or found it interesting. Plus, I went out on the limb with a nasty warm water wash and medium high heat dry with some great results.
If there's anything I can share from my little experience, I am happy to try to pay forward the kindness shown to me here.
Your ideas and suggestions have helped me get so much farther - with so much ease - than I could ever believe I could get. I make dolly outfits and Lou's suggestion of using a mouse pad has made my life so easy, I use it everyday, and can't image the struggle I would have without just that one suggestion alone. The help you've given with my girl shirts is invaluable, thanks to all!!!
Re: Update to Ironall dark LUMPY*shirt test results
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyb
Kelly, I for one thank you for posting your results. I will be doing some transfers today with the Gildan 6.1 cotton shirts.
Hi Gary,
I was reviewing this info, and became a little curious, after this amount of time, did you stay with the Gildan's 6.1? If not, what did you switch to, and if yes, what are the highlights of the shirt?
I still really like the Gildan's Ultra Blend. The Jerzees HW 5050 ended up being a true winner when matched with Ironall (because there was no fading....) and the Jerzees also has a nearly imperceivable window when used with JPSS.
I just wish the Jerzees was a little thicker. Anyway, I was reviewing what shirts I tested prior, I'm considering a new round of testing with JPSS, and became curious as to if you stayed with the Gildan's in the end.
Re: Update to Ironall dark LUMPY*shirt test results
Kelly,
The good property I like with Jerzees is it does not pill. Somehow even though it is only 5.6oz it seems thicker especially the dark color because it has higher density knit IMHO.
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Luis CorelDRAW macro author Macro Website
Re: Update to Ironall dark LUMPY*shirt test results
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lnfortun
Kelly,
The good property I like with Jerzees is it does not pill. Somehow even though it is only 5.6oz it seems thicker especially the dark color because it has higher density knit IMHO.
Yes, I agree, Luis. I am glad you let me know you find the same thing. Jerzees seems great in every category, except the white seems a tad bit too thin. I do use them, and decided to let that one thing slide because of all the other great qualities.
Have you used a variety of Jerzees? I am thinking to do a test on just Jerzees, to see if others have these same great qualities, with a bit more thickness. Have you used any of the others?
You know, when I was asking for opinions before I did these tests, overwhelmingly folks did not like Gildans or Jerzees, yet, those 2 brands came out on top in my tests. I guess it all depends on what you are looking for in a shirt. Anyway, looks like you and I look for the same things!
Re: Update to Ironall dark LUMPY*shirt test results
Quote:
Originally Posted by Girlzndollz
Yes, I agree, Luis. I am glad you let me know you find the same thing. Jerzees seems great in every category, except the white seems a tad bit too thin. I do use them, and decided to let that one thing slide because of all the other great qualities.
Have you used a variety of Jerzees? I am thinking to do a test on just Jerzees, to see if others have these same great qualities, with a bit more thickness. Have you used any of the others?
You know, when I was asking for opinions before I did these tests, overwhelmingly folks did not like Gildans or Jerzees, yet, those 2 brands came out on top in my tests. I guess it all depends on what you are looking for in a shirt. Anyway, looks like you and I look for the same things!
I use Super Sweatshirt 9.0oz, polos, Tees light and dark(for embroidery) color not so much white tshirts as far as Jezees. I use FOL and beefy T for lights. I use Gildan on special request only. I have red nigthmares about excessive lint with red color at that espescially shirts that are made in South America. I forgot which part of S.A.
__________________
Luis CorelDRAW macro author Macro Website
Re: Update to Ironall dark LUMPY*shirt test results
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lnfortun
I use Super Sweatshirt 9.0oz, polos, Tees light and dark(for embroidery) color not so much white tshirts as far as Jezees. I use FOL and beefy T for lights. I use Gildan on special request only.
Which FOTL #? Thanks, Luis..
Quote:
I have red nigthmares about excessive lint with red color at that espescially shirts that are made in South America. I forgot which part of S.A.
okay, lol, you are just cracking me up again! Are you saying the gildans gives you 'red nightmares'?
I just realized, all of these tests I posted on were done with Ironall Dark on pink shirts... none of these shirts are lights.
Re: Update to Ironall dark LUMPY*shirt test results
There are definately differences in the shirts, even the same brand and model # depending on what country manufacters them. I had a problem a while back with some of the gildans 6.1 ultra cotton and figured out that the ones I was having problems with were from a different country then the ones I normally got. I think it was the Xlarge that I was having a problem with, the large and 2x were printing perfect but the Xlarge were not. I figured out the only difference was the country of orgin. I will look later and tell you what country they were manufactured in as I still have some of them.
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Always do right; this will gratify some people and astonish the rest. ~~~Mark Twain BobbieLee
Re: Update to Ironall dark LUMPY*shirt test results
I had the same thing happen with the Jerzees that I sampled. The ones I sampled were from El Salvador, and even tho they were marginally acceptable for thickness to me, I ordered them anyway. I received my order with El Salvador shirts, and also Hondorus shirts.... I bit my lip!! The Honduras shirts were even thinner!! I said to Mark I would have passed on that choice if the sample shirt was the Honduras version. The quality difference was so notable. That's when I also realized, at this price point, it's best to order stock well in advance of needing it because there is no real way of knowing that ordering the supplies is going to mean you get supplies you can actually use. That was with my white shirts, tho, not the pinks. Pinks I went with the Gildans, and outside of them being very big... they are great.
Re: Update to Ironall dark LUMPY*shirt test results
Quote:
Originally Posted by Girlzndollz
Which FOTL #? Thanks, Luis..
okay, lol, you are just cracking me up again! Are you saying the gildans gives you 'red nightmares'?
I just realized, all of these tests I posted on were done with Ironall Dark on pink shirts... none of these shirts are lights.
Oops! Sorry I am barking on the wrong tree. Here you are talking about darks and I am talking about lights. Anyway haven't you noticed? I have a passion for red color. Here is my way out of this. The red lint can dislodge and land on top of the opaque which can mess up the image, he he. I use #5930R FOTL shirts.
__________________
Luis CorelDRAW macro author Macro Website
Re: Update to Ironall dark LUMPY*shirt test results
:d Lol, me, too. I keep talking about white shirts here, too. I keep forgeting those were darks. I did test a ton of whites, the colors was a much smaller test. I wrote the results down somewhere, I guess I never got to posting them. I tested about a half dozen 5050's and another half dozen 100's. Blah, I wish I posted that. I have my order receipts. I can check if I ordered that shirt before.... thank you for the number of the shirt.
Luis, do you use laser paper for dark shirts, you know, the dark paper for lasers? Since this is a thread on dark shirts... maybe it's okay if I ask if you like that product with dark shirts... Thnx!
Re: Update to Ironall dark LUMPY*shirt test results
Quote:
Originally Posted by Girlzndollz
:d Lol, me, too. I keep talking about white shirts here, too. I keep forgeting those were darks. I did test a ton of whites, the colors was a much smaller test. I wrote the results down somewhere, I guess I never got to posting them. I tested about a half dozen 5050's and another half dozen 100's. Blah, I wish I posted that. I have my order receipts. I can check if I ordered that shirt before.... thank you for the number of the shirt.
Luis, do you use laser paper for dark shirts, you know, the dark paper for lasers? Since this is a thread on dark shirts... maybe it's okay if I ask if you like that product with dark shirts... Thnx!
I use laser transfer for darks on special orders. I use Airwaves Fabrc Opaque. I have tried several brands but none meet my expectations or too pricey.
Forever Dark :- feels like rain coat, cracks and peel after one timeexposure to dryer.
IronAll for Dark:- yes it works with laser printer.The material wears off that makes the color look faded.
Alpha Gold :- yes it works with laser printer. Had to drastically lower settings from pressing instruction to make it work. Feels like rain coat.
Wow 7.1 :- Too pricey.
__________________
Luis CorelDRAW macro author Macro Website