Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
Basically, the color reproduction is atrocious. Oki should be ashamed of this printer. I know they can make a decent printer. The C8800 is fantastic. Maybe the C5800 is the one I need. It's almost like the printer needs an ICC profile to get the colors right.
Anyway...I'm venting...and trying to decide whether to take this one back as well. Staples doesn't have a C5800 and I need something before Thursday.
I did not get the C5800. I got the C5500. I'm taking the C5500 back today. I'm going to find a way to take the C8800 on the road. The reason for going with a smaller format was because of the size of the C8800. Charles is using the C5800 but I think he prints vector artwork form Corel most of the time. In that capacity, the C5500 does OK, but with photos, it has a problem. I don't know if the C5800 is the same, and at this point I'm not real inclined to try a third printer...When I have the C8800 sitting right here. I would try the C5800 if staples had it, but they don't, so returning it would mean return shipping charges. My educated guess would be that I WOULD be returning it.
I wonder if the CLP-300 will work with ImageClip and DuracottonHT....
I have the CLP-600. if the 300 is anything like it, stay away. I was never able to get a decent print from Duracotton. One of the toner carts went south before I could really test the imageclip. Registration was *always* off and it kept auto registering every 3rd page.
I understand that if one prints more than one pass on anything, the device that prints must lign up exactly correctly or the immage will be distorted...
Did the printer print the same image OK if on standard plain jane paper?
Sounds like different drums are used for each color and they just did not dance in harmony?
On my printer (CLP-600) the magenta layer was always a few pixels off and you would see gaps at color edges. Text was also never razor sharp unless it was all printed with the black toner only. Didn't matter what paper I printed on.
The price ain't bad for a CLP -- $199 at staples right now. It's an ok printer, it just wouldn't do what I wanted it to. I plan on keeping it for a little while to do non-critical everyday stuff.
I am sure you were in contact with the Samsung support? what was theri take on that?... perhaps a damaged unit? etc...
I was and they were fairly useless. I damaged the shell while moving it and figured it would be more work trying to convince them that the registration had nothing to do with the crack. It only cost $300 at the time so it wasn't that big of a deal.
Besides, printing on shirts ain't exactly a precision thing. You get what, 50-60 dpi at best? Most of the time you can't see imperfections like you can on paper at 600dpi.
ummmm! go see reviews on the CLP-300 on Staples site... it's a piece of junk and Samsung Support is double garbage... there we go... sad... but I did not write the reviews... I want to think that perhaps one could remove the feed tray and find a way to feed it manually... since transfers are usually fed manually one at a time(true or not?) ...and it might be ok... but read all the reviews... and tell me what you think!!!!
I have the C5500N and have no problems with it.
Prints beautifully.
I have even used the magic touch laser which they said might leave a gray box and it didn't.
I used duracotton in it too. One stuck to the fuser. Def have to run several sheets of paper thru before you run the duracotton thru tho.
I read somewere to change the saturation and lighting and I did. I think 17 and
25. (Have to check. haven't had to go in and change since I set it)
Its connected to the network and no problems.
Other than being big I like it.
I also use the C5500N. It isn't a photo printer, but does good for printing Duracotton HT. Have to warm it up with a few sheets of regular paper first. I have done some photo's with good luck, some not on duracotton. I'm not convinced the duracotton paper is great for photo type images, seems best for spot color. Hope this helps.
The one I just returned had the latest driver on CD. This driver version has a bug where your saved settings do not remember the saturation and brightness settings. Oki did confirm that when I called them. The only way I could get a half way decent print was to turn the saturation way down and the brightness way up. Saturation -40 and brightness +25...and because of the driver bug, I had to to it for every print.
Nic...I would try the C5800 if you can find it locally AND the store has a liberal return policy. I haven't used a 5800, but in the color tab of the driver, if it has a bunch of radio buttons and one of them is "Graphic Pro" you should be good. In graphic pro mode, the printer uses the ICC profile that installed with the driver.
I'll tell you though, after using the C3400, C5500 and C8800, the C8800 is worth every bit iof $2000.
I'll tell you though, after using the C3400, C5500 and C8800, the C8800 is worth every bit iof $2000.
Which is the way it should be. You're comparing $500 printers to a $2000 one.
In any event, I posted this on another thread. You might want to try it if you haven't already returned the 5500.
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Did a little digging and found that ICC profiles are cheap nowadays. For $40 you can get one made. I think it's worth the effort. Brings the cost of the printer to a whopping $440.
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Heck, if a few people with 5500's want to chip in we can get one done and split the cost.
The ongoing Oki 5500 color issue... 
