Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
I started using Image Clip a few weeks ago. Great stuff, sure beats trimming and I love the fact it removes the plastic area. I need to make a few dozen shirts and I want to make all of the low temperature pressing at one time then increase the temp and do the high temperature pressing. Is this acceptable, does it work, it would speed up the process and make it easier. If you have Image Clip experience with several shirts at a time I could use your advice. Beach Boy
I started using Image Clip a few weeks ago. Great stuff, sure beats trimming and I love the fact it removes the plastic area. I need to make a few dozen shirts and I want to make all of the low temperature pressing at one time then increase the temp and do the high temperature pressing. Is this acceptable, does it work, it would speed up the process and make it easier. If you have Image Clip experience with several shirts at a time I could use your advice. Beach Boy
Yes that is the way it should be done otherwise it would be counter productive when you change the pressure between low to high and visa versa during production. In addition you have to lower and raise the temp and back as well. The temperature takes a long time to change.
I've just finished my first 100 pack of 17" Impageclip papers and I have to say... Excellent!
I pre-pressed all the images first then cranked up the heat to press the shirts.
I never once changed the pressure between the two.
The differences in thickness between the papers and the shirt increased and decreased the pressure for me.
I pressed the papers and the shirts at 17 seconds after some fiddeling this was the perfect timing for me on 100% cotton Beefy Tees. Then I pressed the image again with a teflon mat for 10 seconds.
Of the 100 sheets I had three sheets not take ahold of the poly completely after pressing.
I plan on getting an additional press just for the Imageclip papers they worked so well for me.
I've just finished my first 100 pack of 17" Impageclip papers and I have to say... Excellent!
I pre-pressed all the images first then cranked up the heat to press the shirts.
I never once changed the pressure between the two.
The differences in thickness between the papers and the shirt increased and decreased the pressure for me.
I pressed the papers and the shirts at 17 seconds after some fiddeling this was the perfect timing for me on 100% cotton Beefy Tees. Then I pressed the image again with a teflon mat for 10 seconds.
Of the 100 sheets I had three sheets not take ahold of the poly completely after pressing.
I plan on getting an additional press just for the Imageclip papers they worked so well for me.
Bill
Just curious. What pressure setting did you use? Is it Light, medium, heavy or extra heavy?
I've just finished my first 100 pack of 17" Impageclip papers and I have to say... Excellent!
I pre-pressed all the images first then cranked up the heat to press the shirts.
I never once changed the pressure between the two.
The differences in thickness between the papers and the shirt increased and decreased the pressure for me.
I pressed the papers and the shirts at 17 seconds after some fiddeling this was the perfect timing for me on 100% cotton Beefy Tees. Then I pressed the image again with a teflon mat for 10 seconds.
Of the 100 sheets I had three sheets not take ahold of the poly completely after pressing.
I plan on getting an additional press just for the Imageclip papers they worked so well for me.
Bill
what do u mean u never changed the pressure. what pressure was u using.
I use a HIX 400 which has a little wheel in the back that adjusts the pressure.
I have it turned up to the point that I have to put my weight into it when pressing a shirt (hanes heavy weight). I would say heavy to extra heavy.
With the thickness of the shirt in the press I really have to lean into the handle to close it. when pressing the two papers together the pressure is MUCH less due to the difference in thickness between the papers and the shirt.
This differance seems to be enouph that I dont have to adjust the pressure.
When I first got the papers I used light pressure and had problems with the poly adhesive transfering completely to the toner.
Now, without adjusting anymore, there is a distinct differance with the transfer of the poly adhesive to the toner, in fact after peeling there is an empty area on the poly sheet where the image pulled the poly off the paper. I can see it and feel it.
I might also note that since I started using my laser thermometer to adjust my heat settings I have had MUCH less waste, my press was running 50 degrees hot.
I use a HIX 400 which has a little wheel in the back that adjusts the pressure.
I have it turned up to the point that I have to put my weight into it when pressing a shirt (hanes heavy weight). I would say heavy to extra heavy.
With the thickness of the shirt in the press I really have to lean into the handle to close it. when pressing the two papers together the pressure is MUCH less due to the difference in thickness between the papers and the shirt.
This differance seems to be enouph that I dont have to adjust the pressure.
When I first got the papers I used light pressure and had problems with the poly adhesive transfering completely to the toner.
Now, without adjusting anymore, there is a distinct differance with the transfer of the poly adhesive to the toner, in fact after peeling there is an empty area on the poly sheet where the image pulled the poly off the paper. I can see it and feel it.
I might also note that since I started using my laser thermometer to adjust my heat settings I have had MUCH less waste, my press was running 50 degrees hot.
Bill
Are using the same temp setting for the two papers as well?
Is the laser thermometer you are using made by Centech that is sold by Harbor Freight? I bought one and end up returning it because it was reading 40 degrees too high compared to the reading I get from an industrial contact thermometer. The industrial contact thermometer reads within 5 degrees with the displayed temp in my press (Hotornix Swing Arm). So I trust the industrial contact thermometer reading. When you said your press is reading 50 degrees too high it might be the laser thermometer that is off. I could be wrong since you said you are pressing better when you set it up 50 degrees less than your old setting.
The Centech laser thermometer description is a misnomer. The laser really does not have anything to do with the actual temp measurement. All the laser beam did is put a spot to where the temp sensor is directed. The temp is red using infrared detector. The temp reading is not affected whether the laser beam is on or off.
As long you are happy with it you are fine. I am just pointing out the inaccuracy of the manufacutrer's claim of +-2%.
Yep, sure is. the very same thermometer.
Your correct about the laser simply being a pointing device but it sure is fun to play with
Mine seems to be operating within specs as i have two presses, one is pretty reliable with the temp and the thermometer reads within a few degrees. Since I started using this toy my prints have improved dramaticaly.
as to the same temperature question, no I press the papers at 210 degrees for 17 seconds. probably closer to 18 since it takes a second or so to reach for the timer once I close the press. I then press the image with a teflon sheet for 10 seconds. Wiping off the teflon with a rag can be a SHOCKING experience !!!
I had a slight drift in temp today by about 10 degrees and a noticable loss in the poly adhesion. I did, by mistake press the papers at 400 degrees and ended up with a puddle of goop
Back to the harbor freight thing, anything I purchase there is basically thought of as disposable anyway, If I get a few months of use from this toy it will have shown me that it's invaluable and worth spending good money on a qualilty thermometer.
now to figure out how to measure the psi of the press...
My experience is the same. I'm using a Hix 20D press and after tweaking the pressure settings, I ended up using the same pressure settings for both the first and second press. Mine is cranked all the way up to the 16 mark, which is just a wee tad less than the absolute highest it will go with a t-shirt in it. But with the ImageClip paper in it during the first press, it closes with noticeably less resistance.
My experience is the same. I'm using a Hix 20D press and after tweaking the pressure settings, I ended up using the same pressure settings for both the first and second press. Mine is cranked all the way up to the 16 mark, which is just a wee tad less than the absolute highest it will go with a t-shirt in it. But with the ImageClip paper in it during the first press, it closes with noticeably less resistance.
I tried using the same pressure for the first and second stage and I noticed a lot of polymer is transferred in the open area that is way more than I like to see. Instead of just few specks of polymer. I also noticed a very faint polymer patch on the shirt after the transfer paper has pressed on it.
Here is another thing with the pressure setting in my press. I set the pressure with a shirt clamped on the lower platten so that the display reads 9. That is the max pressure that the digital gauge is able to display. Beyond that the display does not show any value (over range). When I remove the shirt and clamp the pair of transfer paper the display reads 7. That means the pressure is still way up. Unlike the way you described it "noticeably less resistance". Anyway, if it works for you that is great. Do not change your setup on the account that I or others say otherwise. Like the saying goes "If it works don't fix it." or words to that effect .
Sure wish I had a press with those capabilities.
I have to guess and say things like "noticeably less resistance" instead of specifics like a 2 point difference.
I have noticed specks on only one specific image, out of the 40 or so different images I have done. weird, and have no idea why it only effect this one particular trasnfer. It's a print using a muave color, very light. but it's beyond me why this would effect the transfer of the poly to the blank areas with this graphic - Hmmm.
I'm beginning to think the heat has some to do with the dots as well as the pressure setting. seems thicker darker colors would absorb enouph heat to cause a difference?
timing for Image Clip 
Brett
.
