Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
So I've recently decided to start printing shirts.
So far I'm using the DuraCotton HT for Laser Printers (an OKI). Works really well on Light Shirts using high heat/ low time.
However some of my designs require a dark shirt. So after going through the other posts, I have a bunch of questions
- I'm looking at the Laser 1 Opaque for my dark shirts. Is this a decent paper?
- What colour do the opaques usually come in? (yes, stupid question, I know)
- Will I have to cut the opaques for every print?
- Where can I get good "carrier tape"?
Other questions
- Right now I'm using 100% cotton. Will a 50-50 blend have a signficant effect on my prints (for both light and dark)?
For me, the Laser1 Opaque is acceptable, although compared to Forever's dark pInklines opaque, the Laser1 has a stiffer feel. It's cheaper though, that's why I have it, about 50% cheaper than Forever dark.
A lot of times, the quality of the shirt will have an effect on opaque transfers. I think there was a post on another thread saying that a 50/50 dark shirt bled its colors on the opaque transfers. This has also happened to me before.
robourg - I also have the same setup as you (oki 3400 with duracotton ht)..
Do you also have a cutter to trim around the design for this laser1 opaque transfer paper? If not, how do you manage to remove the image from the paper backing?
I have a jaguar cutter, and a roland versacamm print &cut machine, but I normally just use an ordinary pair of scissors to cut the unwanted (and unprinted) "white portion" of the opaque transfers. Then I just peel off the backing sheet and press.
Really, with scissors?
I was initially going to do that but thought
1- it would not look that good since the smallest unprinted space that wasn't cut properly with scissors will show up as white.
2- Cutting with scissors might leave jagged edges and not perfectly straight (or round) cuts
3- it must also be very time consuming!
4- can't use scissors for cutting out words alone - they will have to be within some sort of design.
Don't get me wrong, If i can get away with using simple scissors then thats great but I'd like to be able to have a quality end product that could be sold too..
Any tips on how to overcome these problems would be greatly appreciated.
Some points here:
1, 2, & 4) Using Opaque transfers will always have it's special characteristics (imperfections) that makes it different from screen printing. But I'm using it since it also has it's advantages, like doing one pc orders, pictures, etc. With this in mind, I always do the designs in such a way that it can easily be cut by scissors, like making a border around the small texts, and using colors in such a way that the border will be a good/acceptable part of the design. Sometimes, I even make two color borders, etc. On graphics with text, I'm always thinking of a way to do the design so that I could cut it in 1 piece. Lastly, I could also make a border with a color similar/very close to the shirt color, so that the jagged edges will be quite unnoticeable.
3) I find that doing opaque transfers and cutting with scissors consumes less time than using my cutter and flex/vinyl transfers. I could also use the "solvent-dark" transfers printed and cut on my roland versacamm but it also takes more time and is more expensive for the customer (but on an order of say, 20 to 100 shirts, this takes less time). I do give my customers choices on what process they want me to use.
Of course, some cases warrants that I outsource to a screen printer. This is also up to the customer.
Stay away from Forever Dark it cracks badly if thrown in the dryer. Hang drying it seems to be holding up longer but not everybody pays attention to washing instruction including the wife, he he.
Not sure though if Forever Dark has been improved since I tried it. Until then beware.
Yes, I was also looking into this paper - Laser1 Opaque.
From the threads, It sounds as it's the best thing there so far..
Apparently there's a paper called WOW 7.1 which isn't out yet but from what people have seen, it sounds like it will be THE paper for opaque. I think it's a one step no trimming required type of paper to be used for laser printer..
The creaters of Duracotton are also supposed to be coming out with a similar product.. Can't wait!
Yes, I was also looking into this paper - Laser1 Opaque.
From the threads, It sounds as it's the best thing there so far..
Apparently there's a paper called WOW 7.1 which isn't out yet but from what people have seen, it sounds like it will be THE paper for opaque. I think it's a one step no trimming required type of paper to be used for laser printer..
The creaters of Duracotton are also supposed to be coming out with a similar product.. Can't wait!
Even if it is available it is not affordable yet at least to me anyway. I was told it cost 2.5 British Pounds that converts to $5.088 at the present going currency exchange rate. It can be economical if it is cut up in crest or credit card size logo which limits you to that type of order in dark shirt. I do a lot of full size on the back and crest size in the front and that puts me out as a user. Just too rich for my blood.
robourg - I also have the same setup as you (oki 3400 with duracotton ht)..
Do you also have a cutter to trim around the design for this laser1 opaque transfer paper? If not, how do you manage to remove the image from the paper backing?
I haven't yet done any prints on the Laser 1 Opaque yet. I'm going to do a trial prints soon and will let you know how they turn out. From what I've gleaned, keeping the the design simple is key to being able to cut it out with scissors. I've tried other papers and as long as your scissor is sharp, you shouldn't have any issues with rough edges. The alternate is using a pen exacto knife for the little spaces. Time-consuming, yes, but the other more expensive alternative is the cutter.
Hope that helps.
Does anyone know good quality heat tape? (to transfer the opaques to the shirt surface without losing the placement of images) Or is there a cheap alternative?