Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
Just a little hint that I have found to work for using the Roland GX 24 on the print and cut mode. After printing your picture out on the transfer paper use liquid white-out to go around the dots so the Roland can find them to cut around the object so you get a nice transfer when you are done. Make sure the white-out is completely dry or it tends to get on the rollers.
Good luck!
Well when I was using the print & cut option in the Cut Studio, after I printed the picture out on the transfer paper that I was going to press on a shirt, the darn Roland could not find the dots on my paper,( I was trying to cut out an oval around the picture) so I used white-out to go around the dots to make them "stand out" more so the Roland could find them, otherwise it just tries to find dark circles and my picture around it was a dark color also.
I hope that makes sense?
I just wanted to thank everyone for giving me such good advice by giving a little tip of my own that I found out by trial and error.
Thanks guys!
Lori
I have never come across the need to use white-out when doing print-cut on transfer paper - which is usually white. Usually, the optical eye has no problem picking up the black dots on a white transfer paper. When you set your design up, do you have your design inside the registration marks? If so, it should not be necessary to do this. I am wondering if your machine is working properly. I would call Roland DGA Support and ask someone there. I could see this being useful when doing print/cut on to a darker substrate that is similar in color to the black dots.
I agree Mark, sounds if somethings a miss if it cannot find the registration marks and has to be gone round with white out. I use a CX24 and never had this problem...., the only problem I do get with this method is the image which is cut out always has an approx 1mm white border underneath the image where the blade does not cut exactly to the cutline, any suggestions on a cure for this?
I know that the CutStudio software that comes with the Roland GX-24 has an offset function in it. It will allow you to create an offset (or inset) based on whatever amount your would like (2mm, .25 inches,...). That is how I would correct that problem using CutStudio. Not sure if your cutter came with this software or has a similar function. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tip Mark, i'll give it a try, Also get the same problem using Coreldraw, presumably there is some type of offset function in Corel too, i'll have to have a look!
Thanks for the tip Mark, i'll give it a try, Also get the same problem using Coreldraw, presumably there is some type of offset function in Corel too, i'll have to have a look!
thanks again Mark
regards
Dave
For Corel offset, I guess that would be the contour inside/outside command, then "break contour groups apart".
No problem, I'm a Corel newbie myself. I think you have to delete the extra object created after "breaking apart the contour group". There's also this new function in CorelX3, where you can "create outlines" from 2 or more selected obejects. This function is very helpful in my versacamm when printing and cutting stickers. Very helpful also when printing/cutting sovent-dark t-shirt transfer medias.
transfer paper tip 
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