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Questions about applique



 
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Old April 17th, 2007 Apr 17, 2007 3:41:38 PM -   #1 (permalink)
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Default Questions about applique

Hi there!
I have been browsing this forum for quite some time and have found alot of helpful info. Thank you to all of you for sharing your expertise. I am currently working on a line of shirts. We are using cotton american apparel tees, then we are cutting letters and shapes out of beautiful woven fabric. I did my first sample by appliquing the letters. Although it looks absolutely stunning on the outside, when i tried it on it feels very stiff and scratchy where the letters are.

Does anyone know of any other options for getting the sewn on look i want? My contractor told me that if we solely sew on the letter we might risk the edges fraying and the fabric puckering.
Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.
We are looking to sell these tees to highend boutiques and department stores so I have to have a nice feel to them.
thanks again, I look forward to your responses.

Rachel
 
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Old April 17th, 2007 Apr 17, 2007 5:09:10 PM -   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Questions about applique

What kind of stabilizer are you using? Are you using a tear away? Even the softest tear away can be scratchy.

Use a soft cut away.
 
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Old April 17th, 2007 Apr 17, 2007 5:15:46 PM -   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Questions about applique

I am not sure what we use. All i know its really harsh.
What is soft cutaway?
and will it always have the paper lining on the back? does anyone have an alternative of how to get the look i want with out it looking cheap?
sorry if i sound clueless.

Rachel
 
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Old April 17th, 2007 Apr 17, 2007 7:06:12 PM -   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Questions about applique

A paper lining? You mean the backing that you're using? Are you hooping the fabric and using a computerized machine? If you are hooping, the "paper lining" that you referring to is the stabilizer. You maybe able to use a tear away (after you're done, you can pull that backing away) or if you use a cut away, after you're done you'll cut away the excess backing that you don't need.

Can you explain in more detail exactly what your process is?
 
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Old April 19th, 2007 Apr 19, 2007 9:31:32 AM -   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: Questions about applique

I will tell you exactly what we want to do.
I have a t'shirt and I bought some beautiful woven fabric.
We are cutting out words and shapes from the woven fabric to be put on the tee. we want it to look as if it was sewn on.
The inside of the shirt needs to have a super soft hand as it will be going to high end boutiques and stores.
my sample was made and the back is very scratchy and stiff those making it harsh against the body.
Is tehre any other process i can investigate? I am told i have to do some sort of applique or the edges will fray and the fabric will shift and pull.
Ive been trying to do research for two days...coming up empty handed.
thank you in advance.

Rachel
 
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Old April 19th, 2007 Apr 19, 2007 9:45:01 AM -   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: Questions about applique

I don't know what kind of fabic you are using, but I know that twill will fray if the edge are not sewn down. I do some athletic tackle twill applications which is a similar process. I haven't used any backing on the inside and have never really thought about the inside being scratchy, but then it doesn't really matter as much for ahtletic applications.

What are you referring to when you said, "I have to do some sort of applique". Does that mean heat applied?
 
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Old April 19th, 2007 Apr 19, 2007 9:58:39 AM -   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: Questions about applique

Yes, the edges will probably frey if they aren't sewn down. But can you explain to us what is on the inside of your shirt that is making it scratchy. Are you talking about the stiching is making it scratchy. If its just stitching that you're talking about, then I'm not sure what to do about that.

But if you are using any other sort of fabric on the inside of your shirt to avoid shifting, that's what is giving you the scratchy feeling. That's what I'm guessing the problem is, but you never answered that part of the question . That's to what I was referring to using a backing or stabilizer.

What kind of machine are you using to apply your pieces to your shirts?

I'd go to the nearest sewing/embroidery supply store and ask them for the softest stabilizer that they have. Also, take them a sample of the blank shirt that you are using so that they make sure they sell you something that won't weigh down the shirt or be visable from the outside of the garment (especially if you're using light colored garments).

You might want a soft mesh cut away.
 
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Old April 19th, 2007 Apr 19, 2007 10:42:30 AM -   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: Questions about applique

hi, so sorry that it seems I am not answering your question. I did not do these appliques, i handed it off to a contracter, but it seems like the put a trasfer paper on the back of my fabric, then cut out my letters and sewed them on...so yes, i would assume the scratchiness is coming from the stabilizer.
I am also told I should be using a stabalizer called Pellum (sp?) which is much softer.
I am brand spanking new at this process, so I am kinda of teaching myself as i go.
I am using a lightweight shirt from American Apparel, and will eventually be using their thermals and 2x1 rib tanks.
Can you explain to me what a soft cut away as? as all this terminology is new to me. thank you so much. You guys are really great and helpful!

Rachel
 
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Old April 19th, 2007 Apr 19, 2007 2:51:29 PM -   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: Questions about applique

Hmmm, if you're thinking that your contractor used a transfer paper, that means they used something like "wonder under" (you can google that) to actually make the shapes and patterns you've cut out adhere to the garment. Then they sewed around it so that the edges dont frey. The contractor is probably using a adherisive paper that is too heavy for your garments. Have you talked to your contractor about needing something softer? Your contractor should have been able to explain all of this to you and find a more suitable adhesive for your shapes and letters.

Pellon products are great and may alleviate your scratchy feeling.
 
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