Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
I've been experimenting with flex transfers and on some of the stretchier fabrics, I'm finding that it's not quite enough. The thinner lines will eventually crack. I think that by lightly stretching the fabric before I apply I can find a happy medium.
I remember hearing about using a fabric stretcher for this type of application but have been unable to locate anything for use with a heat press. I've seen a few for use for direct screenprinting but they don't look like they're suitable for transfer use.
Is anybody pre-stretching garments? How do you do it?
I've been experimenting with flex transfers and on some of the stretchier fabrics, I'm finding that it's not quite enough. The thinner lines will eventually crack. I think that by lightly stretching the fabric before I apply I can find a happy medium.
I remember hearing about using a fabric stretcher for this type of application but have been unable to locate anything for use with a heat press. I've seen a few for use for direct screenprinting but they don't look like they're suitable for transfer use.
Is anybody pre-stretching garments? How do you do it?
Haven't tried to strech material before pressing, but I would susspect that it would make the transfer appear badly when the garment is in it's "equilibrium" state.
It may make it hard to sell if it only looks right on larger people...
It may make it hard to sell if it only looks right on larger people...
These shirts are specifically for some girls with big boobs. They hate wearing shirts that puckers or crack when they wear them. They will gladly pay extra for stuff that looks right when it's on *them*.
These shirts are specifically for some girls with big boobs. They hate wearing shirts that puckers or crack when they wear them. They will gladly pay extra for stuff that looks right when it's on *them*.
Ok, this is what I initially thought of. It sounds kind of ridiculous but it might work.
4 2x1" boards, as long as the shirt from top to bottom.
Drill a couple of holes in all of them (maybe 3?) for lightweight rope.
Clamp the boards on to the long edges of the shirt (2 on each side of the shirt) with some small clamps. Then thread rope through the drill holes and tie the ropes to weights. Maybe soda bottles full of water? That way you can control the "stretch" by removing some water. The ropes should not be long enough for the bottles to touch the floor.
The boards and bottles will hang off the edge of the heat press. Basically you would be using gravity to stretch the shirt. The boards and clamps will (hopefully) keep the shirt stretched evenly all the way across.
I'm sure you can think of something better, that's just what came to mind.
Maybe you could use the wooden hoops used in quilting or needlepoint. I'm not sure what they are called. You may even be able to locate different shapes(squre,circle,ect.).
No not crazy, I was thinking of something similar. Had to do a shirt tonight and I used a piece of cardboard and pinned the shirt to itself (made it smaller and then slipped it over the cardboard. It came out ok but the safety pins left some nasty stretch marks. A little steam and heat fixed that right up.
I'm really going to need to figure this out. I've got another small job coming up for a dozen vinyls. The shirts look SO much better if pressed when stretched!
Ooh... just got an idea. Got to write it down before I forget. I'll try to rig up a prototype tomorrow. Keep the ideas coming!
When screenprinting a t-shirt on a table, there are a couple of considerations: 1) The ink not going through onto the back, 2) The shirt not bunching (i.e. you want it nice and flat).
My solution has been to cut cardboard to fit - so if a shirt is 17.5" wide you might stretch it over a piece of cardboard 18" wide for example. In this case you'll want something that can withstand the heat, but it's pretty simple and effective.
Regarding your mentioned, I understand that your transfer logo labels might be cracked after heat pressing on your fabric.
Your fabric might high stretchable like sportswear.
I think it sistuation depends on material of your heat transfer label.
Plastsol transfer label is normally not stretched with stretchier garments.
Ideal way is to select urethane-base heat transfer labels.
Urethane-based heat transfer label is ideal for swimwear and sprotswear.
Especially it is tox-free. So it will also be used for baby and children's wear also.
Last edited by Solmu; March 3rd, 2007 at 12:47 AM.
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1. I am using plastisol with a flex additive. It's not flexing as much as I would like. I *may* be asking too much from it, dunno. I know that when I pulled on it, the thinner lines cracked easily. Based on the samples I tested with, I expected more give.
2. I will run into this when using vinyl (which I do a lot of). Vinyl has no give to it. When applying to a stretchy shirt (like a bella ladie's v-neck) it will pucker the fabric when stretched.
In either case, the results are unacceptable. I either get a design that's torn or one that's holding on for dear life!
I did a vinyl pressing last night and got the results I was after. I just need to find a way to accomplish this quickly and reliably. I'd rather pay for something that works but from the looks of it, I'm going to have to go with a home-built solution.
I am looking for something similar for different reasons in dye sublimation. Cardboard works well but is very slow to insert and then remove. I am thinking about a highly polished stainless steel but worry about the hardness and also heat build up. I am very open to suggestions. I enjoy learning from the forum.
I am looking for something similar for different reasons in dye sublimation. Cardboard works well but is very slow to insert and then remove. I am thinking about a highly polished stainless steel but worry about the hardness and also heat build up. I am very open to suggestions. I enjoy learning from the forum.
Cardboard has so far proven to be the best approach. I don't like the edges catching and leaving bits of paper everywhere. I like your idea... I'm going to do some digging and see if I can find some heat resistant plastic.
For sublimation you're going to want a pad of some sort (as will I now that I think about it). I've used the foam from source substrates. It doesn't get hot!
The only bummer is that I need one cutout for each size.