Discuss the various aspects of heat press technology. Transfer paper, inks, plastisol transfers, vinyl cutters, printers, commercial usage, durability, suppliers, etc.
I just heat press a 100% polyester (tote bag) using a technic print transfer paper (with picture image). The inside of the bag got stuck together and the image did not imprint plus I couldn't peel the paper off - can anyone tell me where did I went wrong? What temperature should I use and the time?
It doesn't sound like you will be able to get the transfer hot enough to work on the poly bag. (That's why the backing stuck)
If you hate to give up, and have some bags to burn, here are a few things to try.
Take a bag and cut it into strips for testing, do the same with a few transfers.
You need to determine what the melting time/temp is for the bag. Lower the temp to 300 F and press 2 strips of poly bag together for 6 seconds, then inspect. Did it melt? If not, try a second pair for 8 seconds (then 10, 12 etc until you get the melting problem).
Take your temp up to 325 F and start again. You should be able to get an idea of how long you can safely press the poly at each temp range. When you get to 400 F you won't have much dwell time at all.
Now you must determine what the min. time/temp is for your transfer to stick to the bag and still peel properly (hot peel). Do a similar test, this time pressing a strip of transfer to a strip of poly bag, keeping under your max time/temps that you discovered above.
You might be able to use a lower temp but longer dwell time or a higher temp with a very short dwell time.
Post your questions or results if you want more help.
Plan B is to buy cotton totes, they work well with photo transfers. I use a natural color BAGedge BE010 from alphashirt.com
I warm peel them, it puts a little more transfer on the bag and a smoother finish.
When doing poly or dinier you should place a pad (large mouse pad) in the bag to stop the heat from going to the other side. I believe the person was using a hot peel instead of a opaque transfer.
__________________ There is a center to everything.. I found mine at.. www.heatpressessentials.com What you need to do the job! www.tbiz101.com (New)Heat Transfer Education
After doing a little googling. I found a few temp benchmarks.
If the bag is made from polypropylene like the BAGedge BE002 found at alphashirt.com, the melting temp should be about 320 F. I had a rep tell me screen printers tried to run this bag through the dryers and they came out as shrink wrap.
If the bag is made from polyester, the melting temp should be a little higher. Best guess is 392 F. The material should start softening at 302 F.
The unknown is how many seconds of heat is needed to get the material up to the same temp as the platen. I've done some photo transfers and measured the paper temp as the press is raised, even after 8 seconds, the paper is not quite up to full temp yet. (More testing needed on this, I'm going from memory)
So who made the bag you are melting, and what was your time/temp setting?
__________________ There is a center to everything.. I found mine at.. www.heatpressessentials.com What you need to do the job! www.tbiz101.com (New)Heat Transfer Education
that is a common problem found with poly in any garment for example women's t's tend to have a poly blend in them and when you get the poly to hot it may either melt or shrink.
That's what happened last time my poly totes melted - but thanks to John S and badalou not anymore. I've taken your suggestions and tried and found out that after heating my press machine using opaque transfer to 350C with 6 seconds, my tote still melted and got stuck together. However used a piece of canvas (a piece of my other kind of tote bag) in between my poly bag using again opaque transfer at 350C doubled the seconds to 12, it worked nicely plus even tried it with 15 secs, again it was fine.
I also used a hot peel for light garments again with a piece of canvas in between my poly bag with the same temp. with 10 secs. to 15 sec. it turned out great. I guess the key was putting a wall between the two materials and an average temp. it should avoid the melting part. I even used a piece of cardboard.
that is a common problem found with poly in any garment for example women's t's tend to have a poly blend in them and when you get the poly to hot it may either melt or shrink.
I don't think women's t-shirts are any more likely to have poly in them than men's (if anything slightly less likely in fact). They do often have spandex (and similar materials) though.
Wow I'm glad I found this thread...I'm trying to print a goof proof transfer from Transfer Express (those guys are great by the way) on 600 denier bag. I'm putting the one color transfer on the front pocket. I have employed a mouse pad in the pocket to get the print area higher than the seams. I have a Swingman 16 x20. I have the temp set at 375 and the pressure on in the firm realm. I have the pocket fit over the end of the press to eliminate a great deal of the bulk. I did notice on my first test that the handles were nylon and melted... I got a piece of heat resisant fabric to put over subsequent tests and the handles didn't melt ...
Here's my problem...the print doesn't seem to be heating evenly. The ink closest to the center of heat does fine but the bottom of the print does stick to the bag. I guess what I'm asking for here is some suggestions (more suggestions) for temp and time....
...the print doesn't seem to be heating evenly. The ink closest to the center of heat does fine but the bottom of the print does stick to the bag.
Are you sure the surface of the platen is in perfect contact with the transfer?
A seam, a zipper or even an inside pocket can hold one end of the platen up off the transfer. A little longer dwell time might help but not if you have uneven pressure issues.
Does your press have a cold spot? Can you move the bag to one of the sides of the press to get away from the side you are using?
I think you're right about uneven pressure. I have tried to elevated the print area with mouse pads because the pocket I want the design on is gusseted. I think I need to work on that some more...thank you for your response.