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Moo Spot Prints · February 16th, 2007

How can I tell if a transfer is fully cured or not? I'm still experimenting with low temperature transfers and I'm trying to find the lowest temp possible.

I'm currently trying out a cold peel with adhesive that supposedly was cured either most or all the way. The adhesive sets at a lower temperature so it *should* work. Unfortunately, the ink is slightly tacky after I press so I suspect I was sent a normal cold peel transfer that's still uncooked.

Wash test? How many washes? What temp?
Stretch test? How far? (They have a flex additive).
Ideas?

Mr.4ColorProcess · February 16th, 2007

When tranfers come rolling out of our cylinder press, we check them by simply pressing our hands down on the transfer paper -- if they stick to your hands and rise from the conveyor, then we raise the temperature slightly till the problem goes away.

But I think you're working with home transfers from an home printer... and I don't know about those

-- Jim

Moo Spot Prints · February 16th, 2007

No, I'm working with plastisol transfers. They are normally only partially cured in the oven, no? I'm asking how can I tell if they're cured *after* I press them with a heat press.

Mr.4ColorProcess · February 16th, 2007

Hmmm...I'm not familiar with made at home transfers. Interesting.

Moo Spot Prints · February 16th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.4ColorProcess


	Hmmm...I'm not familiar with made at home transfers. Interesting.

No, these are normal plastisol transfers made by a printer.

Rodney · February 16th, 2007

Quote:


	Hmmm...I'm not familiar with made at home transfers. Interesting.

Jimmy, I don't think Jose is talking about transfers made at home

He's talking about the same type of transfers that you get from the big name plastisol transfer companies.

He just needs to know (and I'd like to know as well), how does the operator who is doing the heat pressing of those transfers know if the ink is cured after they have pressed the shirt.

I've noticed some plastisol transfers feeling "tacky" after I applied them so I'm wondering how I would know if it was cured or not.

Hope that helps to clarify things a bit

Anybody have any tips?

Mr.4ColorProcess · February 16th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rodney


	Jimmy, I don't think Jose is talking about transfers made at home He's talking about the same type of transfers that you get from the big name plastisol transfer companies. He just needs to know (and I'd like to know as well), how does the operator who is doing the heat pressing of those transfers know if the ink is cured after they have pressed the shirt. I've noticed some plastisol transfers feeling "tacky" after I applied them so I'm wondering how I would know if it was cured or not. Hope that helps to clarify things a bit Anybody have any tips?

Ahhhh, I see. And when I look back at those replies of mine, I see where I'm off...

O.k., here goes. Once you press your transfer down on the garment, check the transfer paper for ink still on it. If your transfer has left ink on the paper then you know you should raise the temperature of your heat-press. I use a five (5) degree gradual increment process when this happens. My press is set at 365 degrees and atleast 55psi ... so when I see ink still on the transfer paper (and I'm not talking about the ink-stains you'll sometimes see) I increase my heat press temperature five degrees higher -- and take it from there.

Let me know if I answered your question this time!

-- Jim

Mr.4ColorProcess · February 16th, 2007

And also, here's another major point to consider: The quality of materials your heat transfer vendor uses. Quality materials makes for quality transfers. There are cheap inks to use and quality inks to use.

Moo Spot Prints · February 19th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.4ColorProcess


	Let me know if I answered your question this time!

Sort of. I think that's probably one thing I can test for. However, in this particular case, The transfer has adhesive crystals so after I peel, I think the ink is coming off whether it wants to or not!

If I wasn't clear before, the reason I'm asking is that this particular printer has promised me that his flex formulation can be cured on the paper so that I don't have to press above 325 degrees (the typical cure temp for plastisol). Because the ink has a flex additive, it should not crack. The adhesive will melt at a significantly lower temp (275 or so) and keep the transfer on the shirt. So far this has been the ONLY solution I have found that satisfies my requirement of sub 300 press temps.

The front lines at the printer either don't seem to grasp what I'm asking, don't know the answer and are giving me the stock pressing instructions or think I'm an idiot because it's OBVIOUS that their cold peel transfers are cured to a certain level. I'm making some progress but I think there is a gap in their communication process that will take some time to fill.

What I'm looking for is obvious signs that I need more temp/longer dwell and there may not be an easy way to tell.

Mr.4ColorProcess · February 19th, 2007

If the ink doesn't transfer to the shirt, then raise the temperature of your heat press. If the design seems to almost fall off after transferring it, then you might want to consider increasing the psi of your press. Start with a lower temperature and work your way up until the design transfers correctly. Use five degree increments.

MotoskinGraphix · February 19th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moo Spot Prints


	Sort of. I think that's probably one thing I can test for. However, in this particular case, The transfer has adhesive crystals so after I peel, I think the ink is coming off whether it wants to or not! If I wasn't clear before, the reason I'm asking is that this particular printer has promised me that his flex formulation can be cured on the paper so that I don't have to press above 325 degrees (the typical cure temp for plastisol). Because the ink has a flex additive, it should not crack. The adhesive will melt at a significantly lower temp (275 or so) and keep the transfer on the shirt. So far this has been the ONLY solution I have found that satisfies my requirement of sub 300 press temps. The front lines at the printer either don't seem to grasp what I'm asking, don't know the answer and are giving me the stock pressing instructions or think I'm an idiot because it's OBVIOUS that their cold peel transfers are cured to a certain level. I'm making some progress but I think there is a gap in their communication process that will take some time to fill. What I'm looking for is obvious signs that I need more temp/longer dwell and there may not be an easy way to tell.

Jose

If you press the transfer according to the instructions and the image transfers correctly I think you are good to go. You may try the scratch test or give it a wash test. I assume the transfer printer knows what they are producing. I assume this because to formulate low temp stretch transfers they would or should have done a bit of trial and error before selling the technique. I do have a question for you...are you trying to press on nylon or low temp fabrics? Just curious why you need low temp transfers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.4ColorProcess


	O.k., here goes. Once you press your transfer down on the garment, check the transfer paper for ink still on it. If your transfer has left ink on the paper then you know you should raise the temperature of your heat-press. I use a five (5) degree gradual increment process when this happens. My press is set at 365 degrees and atleast 55psi ... so when I see ink still on the transfer paper (and I'm not talking about the ink-stains you'll sometimes see) I increase my heat press temperature five degrees higher -- and take it from there.

All ink transfers from the paper.........
With cold peel yes, hot peel yes, hot-split no and or using a cold peel as a hot-split no.

T-BOT · February 19th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moo Spot Prints


	So far this has been the ONLY solution I have found that satisfies my requirement of sub 300 press temps.

Hi Jose, stretch plastisol transfers below 325F application I don't think they can be made from what I know.

We have tested such for a few years now and 325F is the lowest we can get it done. Takling about opaque WHITE ink printing on Dark shirts, Hot peels.

Have you looked into low temp Nylon type transfers yet ?

Moo Spot Prints · February 19th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by MotoskinGraphix


	I do have a question for you...are you trying to press on nylon or low temp fabrics? Just curious why you need low temp transfers.

Yes, I am pressing onto performance/wicking polyester. The fabric is damaged at high heat and pressure.

I am not following the instructions as I've been given contradictory information. The printed instructions say to press at 325 for 10-15s. My verbal and email communication say that I should be able to press as low as 275. The question is whether or not they need to perform an additional step to my transfers - i.e. cure them more in the conveyor. I have found 285 for 20 secs to work. These are cold peels, if that makes any difference.

So far I've my tests have survived 2 days of wear and about 10 washes. I *think* I'm ok, I'm just trying to verify it independently.

Moo Spot Prints · February 19th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-BOT


	Hi Jose, stretch plastisol transfers below 325F application I don't think they can be made from what I know.

They can.

Now you know.

It's different than yours. These are cold peels. Remember your thread on 'Why cold peels?" This would be one reason. You cure the ink and use a separate adhesive to attach it.

I'd rather use your one step hot peel but my material won't allow it. I have to do a press, cool, peel, repress with pad or teflon sheet depending on the finish I want. So far the results are encouraging.

Moo Spot Prints · February 19th, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-BOT

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How can I tell if the plastisol transfer ink is cured after I've pressed the shirt?

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