I need help! We are going to "print" names and numbers on back of my son's little league team jerseys for the team. We don't want to make screens for each shirt - soooo, how do you guys recommend applying them? Who do you use to make screen print transfers or whatever you would use???
I need help! We are going to "print" names and numbers on back of my son's little league team jerseys for the team. We don't want to make screens for each shirt - soooo, how do you guys recommend applying them? Who do you use to make screen print transfers or whatever you would use???
We have been doing dye sublimination on poly tees. Even with the little league teams. My daughters soccer team is going to poly moisture wicking jerseys this year.
But vinyl numbers are usually how alot of people do it.
On a side note how do you price this? I have heard $.50 per letter/number. Is this the norm? I am meeting for the first time with all the baseball/t-ball/softball coaches tomorrow. I had planned on purchasing the number/letter packs. The one company I was looking at for a team pack is around five cents per letter.
Here is a real quick example that we use when dye subbing on poly shirts. Usually no extra charge on doing them, usually charge an extra $15.00 on artwork setup if they want images inside their numbers and such.
Here is a real quick example that we use when dye subbing on poly shirts. Usually no extra charge on doing them, usually charge an extra $15.00 on artwork setup if they want images inside their numbers and such.
But that only works on white colored, 100% polyester jerseys right?
Dye sublimated shirts can be done on a "light" colored garment - white, ash gray, vegas gold, columbia blue, yellow gold, etc.
I have a couple sample shirts coming in next week. Will get them dyed and post pics on grey. Since thats the only color I have coming in next week. Also have done them on 85% poly/ 15% cotton shirts. With good results.
Options to do it yourelf (via heat press):
1) Vinyl transfers using a cad/cutter (most expensive but great quality)
2) Solvent transfer paper printed and cut on a versacamm (you can order from Josh at imprintables) - still expensive but great quality
3) Opaque transfer paper laser/CLC printed, then cut on a cad/cutter
4) Dye-sub - if the fabric color is light
5) If the fabric color is dark, you can still dye sub on a white polyester fabric, then just cut using a pair of scissors, then individually sewn into the garment. This method (if done right) could look great on the jerseys. It will have the "applique" feel, that is popular on sports jerseys.
Options to do it yourelf (via heat press):
1) Vinyl transfers using a cad/cutter (most expensive but great quality)
2) Solvent transfer paper printed and cut on a versacamm (you can order from Josh at imprintables) - still expensive but great quality
3) Opaque transfer paper laser/CLC printed, then cut on a cad/cutter
4) Dye-sub - if the fabric color is light
5) If the fabric color is dark, you can still dye sub on a white polyester fabric, then just cut using a pair of scissors, then individually sewn into the garment. This method (if done right) could look great on the jerseys. It will have the "applique" feel, that is popular on sports jerseys.
This is Little League. All the kids uniforms in Little League are done with either vinyl or flock heat applied. Sponsors are not paying for A+ rated professional sportswear
This is Little League. All the kids uniforms in Little League are done with either vinyl or flock heat applied. Sponsors are not paying for A+ rated professional sportswear
I don't think Byron said anything about A+ rated sportswear, he was just giving the various options so the original poster could decide for themselves what they'd like to use
Option 5 is not really hard to do, and you can use a home-type sewing machine. It would be fun to experiment with this. And using option 3 could be the cheapest of them all.