Howdy folks, have another question here. We bought a sampler pack of blank patches, and were quite disappointed with them. Not only did the blank surface not look very "authentic" like patch material, the merrowed edge was very sloppy. Well it was probably just the company we bought from. Anyway....
I recently found the site Embroidery Library Projects!. I've found a LOT of help there, including making patches. Here's my question: When they finally stick the rough-cut patch onto the backing to finish off with the satin border, they claim to use a water-soluble backing. I've tried only two backings, a regular cutaway and tearaway. The tearaway with only one layer doesn't hold up- the patch pops out before it's done- and the cutaway is too tough, can't tear it away or cut away cause it leaves a feathery edge. Not good lookin'.
Will a water soluble backing hold up more than a tearaway, or what would you use? And I understand it will just "pop" out -- does it need a nice squirt of water to finish it off?
Thanks for any advice!
After cutting away the stabiliser use a Textile Marker of the same color as your satin border and color the edges of the patch to hide the stabiliser. Try to get permanent color markers that wont wash out.
We have a product called Badgemaster which can be used for creating applique and patches. I'm not sure how it works with other products, but with Badgemaster you submerge the design in a bowl of hot water and let is soak for about an hour or so. The film will dissolve, leaving the patch or applique.
We also have something called Washaway Extra, which will be added to our web site soon. This is a fleece like base material with an adhesive backing. Once your embroidery is done, submerge the article in water and apply a light agitation. The backing will completely dissolve.
As I said, I'm only really conversent with how our products operate, but in both cases, they do need to be submerged and left in water for a bit to fully dissolve.
One thing I did try is two layers of tearaway, which did hold the patch together till it was finished. But white tearaway with a black patch is somewhat contrasting.... I might try one of those markers and see what looks best.
Thanks both for the ideas!
[quote=EnMartian;584027]We have a product called Badgemaster which can be used for creating applique and patches. I'm not sure how it works with other products, but with Badgemaster you submerge the design in a bowl of hot water and let is soak for about an hour or so. The film will dissolve, leaving the patch or applique.
Badgemaster is good for making patches. A little messy and time consuming but it works.
Madiera and Gunold also have products similar to Badgemaster. Madieras is called AS-film and Gunold I think is called Solvy film 80. The Madeira product you have to use in layers. Either one you use its still a fiddely way to make badges.
Hope this helps.
Earl
There is a product called Vilene that also works well for this purpose. It is water soluable and holds up to dense stitching. Many use it for FSL (Free Standing Lace). I have used it for patches. I use two layers hooped. Then I cut close to the satin edge and dab at the remaining Vilene with a wet cloth. The Vilene dissolves and the patch stays dry and retains its perfect shape. No need to submerge the entire patch in water.
We have a product called Badgemaster which can be used for creating applique and patches. I'm not sure how it works with other products, but with Badgemaster you submerge the design in a bowl of hot water and let is soak for about an hour or so. The film will dissolve, leaving the patch or applique.
We also have something called Washaway Extra, which will be added to our web site soon. This is a fleece like base material with an adhesive backing. Once your embroidery is done, submerge the article in water and apply a light agitation. The backing will completely dissolve.
As I said, I'm only really conversent with how our products operate, but in both cases, they do need to be submerged and left in water for a bit to fully dissolve.
when using the badgemaster backing to make patches...do i simply hoop the badgenaster backing and sew omy design on top... can i use a single layer of badgemaster or do i have to double or triple layer it when i hoop?
How much you hoop depends on the weight of your design. If your design is pretty light weight, just hoop one layer. If it is a heavier weight design made from heavier weight thread, hoop a couple of layers.
Make sure you test and possibly adjust your tension settings before you stitch the whole design. Stitching into Badgemaster is not exactly like stitching on fabric. Doing a test could save you some grief.
Once your design is completed, make sure you clip away the excess Badgemaster material, don't tear it. Once you've clipped most of the excess away, place your design in a container of hot water and soak it for at least an hour, and then rinse it.
Making patches from scratch 
I might try one of those markers and see what looks best.
