I have a Toyota 9100 that says it will run 1200 spm. My question is should I max it out? Also, what are the deciding factors as to how fast to run my machine. I have been running everything at 750 spm, but I hate that speed knowing the machine will go almost twice that rate. Thanks Troy
I change my speed based on what I am embroidering on. I too run my machine much slower than max (I run caps somewhere around 630 and flats around 730 - sometimes I slow it down even more). My tech that trained me recommended those speeds to increase the life of the machine although he told me I could go much faster. I can spare a couple extra minutes to keep parts from wearing faster.
OK that makes sense...I just dont understand why they would create the machine that would go 1200 spm if they say to just run them in the 700 range. It is like having a car that will go 150mph, but the speed limit is only 70.
Experiment a little with the speed. Don't be concerned about wearing out the machine. If you keep it properly oiled, especially the hook, it will be fine. Remember, the hook is turning at twice the stitch rate so at 1200 SPM, the hook is turning at 2400. Hook oiling is crucial, no matter what speed.
Also, do a little playing around. Setup a sample design with satin stitches of various widths. Something like a 1MM column that becomes 1.5 then 2.0 then 2.5 etc. Listen to the machine run this at 1200 and I'd be willing to bet the machine slows down as the stitches get longer. So in effect, at 1200SPM, on most design it is running much slower. I know our older Toyota 850's did that and so did our melcos and even the newer Tajimas.
Seriously, if your design is right and your substrate properly hooped, most times you can let it rip all out.
Think about this, if you run the machine at 1200, even if it slows itself to 900 on most designs, you are running it 20% faster than at 750. 20% more throughput, 20% more revenue. Over the course of 5 years that's a lot of money... at the very least, you should experiment with it.
Experiment a little with the speed. Don't be concerned about wearing out the machine. If you keep it properly oiled, especially the hook, it will be fine. Remember, the hook is turning at twice the stitch rate so at 1200 SPM, the hook is turning at 2400. Hook oiling is crucial, no matter what speed.
Also, do a little playing around. Setup a sample design with satin stitches of various widths. Something like a 1MM column that becomes 1.5 then 2.0 then 2.5 etc. Listen to the machine run this at 1200 and I'd be willing to bet the machine slows down as the stitches get longer. So in effect, at 1200SPM, on most design it is running much slower. I know our older Toyota 850's did that and so did our melcos and even the newer Tajimas.
Seriously, if your design is right and your substrate properly hooped, most times you can let it rip all out.
Think about this, if you run the machine at 1200, even if it slows itself to 900 on most designs, you are running it 20% faster than at 750. 20% more throughput, 20% more revenue. Over the course of 5 years that's a lot of money... at the very least, you should experiment with it.
Yeah you are right about it adjusting speed. I have seen as it sews even if it is set at 750 it runs at a range.
750 on all jobs unless the design is small enough that the round finishes on the machine but the next round is not yet framed.....in this case no need running it fast....
750 on all jobs unless the design is small enough that the round finishes on the machine but the next round is not yet framed.....in this case no need running it fast....
ha ha Ive always run my machines on 750 even after I got new machines which are capable of running upto 1000 but I just feel that my machine's like a car....if you accelerate too much you're wearing it off quicker.....
I run my cap machine at 550 though.... if i speed up a little i start to feel the table shaking too much so I leave it at 550. I think its a good speed for caps to get good registration of design.....
How would machine speed effect registration on caps? If it is hooped right and the design is digitized correctly it should not be an issue? I'll be the first to admit that we almost never use our 270 degree frames and part of the reason was inconsistency. With the HoopTech frames we just let them run pretty much flat out, unless like you mentioned we just can't keep them hooped fast enough for the small designs. Even then, we will try to assist with the hooping to keep the machine running. Nothing in the back end is earning money if the needles are not going up and down so if we have to, we'll have two hoopers on one run.
All this talk about machine speed... I can open the door from my office to the back storage and I can hear the machines running. Right now we're running a 200,000 stitch design on poly fleece and I can tell from my desk she has it running at 1200... purrrrring like a money making kitten... on the smaller machine she's running hats and it too is running well above 750, probably close to 1000 and that may be the machine slowed down for the longer satin stitches in the design.
You will eventually find out that by running your machine at higher speeds, you get more thread breaks. My 2 Brother PR600's like running at 700-800. My SWF seems to like 750 for tubular items and 600 for hats, above those numbers we get more thread breaks and cases where the thread pulls out when first starting after a cut. The extra speed is more than offset by the time it takes to fix a thread cut.
How fast do you run your embroidery machine? 
