I wanted to do dogtags. I googled about it and found this great forum. Then I ordered a color press system from blankdogtag.com. I was so excited. Set it up print the photos on the text print xp sub paper, colors were unsaturated even at best photo. I didn't stop there, I press for 40 sec at 400degrees, man my dogtags where awful.
Tonite I decided to give it a try. I used some photocopoy paper to test the ink. Same thing. Red turns magenta. Then I took out the ink and thought about googling their number. What I've found is frustrating, the inks I believe they sent me are only compatible with epson c84, c86, cx6400 (i have c88+) and the best thing is that they are not sub ink, can you believe this.
Well I've ordered some sublijet with paper over at bestblanks.com but since I'm in Haiti it takes a lil time for shipping. Right now I don't even know if switching inks would affect the printer quality.
My advice to anyone starting out. Don't get over-excited, take time spend night learning about what you're getting into then get the basic kit.
Thanks and good nite(sorry for the length, when I'm mad I talk a lot....:-)
Better still, eliminate all the frustration by having a reliable company supply you with the tees and do the printing on the shirts for you - at an affordable price. That's what I did with my Subway Soaps t-shirts. Do this until you learn the tricks of the trade with printing.
Sublijet IQ is a great dye sub ink (IMO). We have used it for about 3 years. I run a 4800 totally dedicated to dye sub. My advice on switching from pigment based ink to dye sub ink is to purge your lines before installing the dye sub or don't expect your first few prints to be of good quality. Sublijet ink has the ability to print some of the richest black color on the market, but it also depends on the sub paper you are using. I like texprint paper for fabrics (mousepads, aprons, etc). I like the QC Pro paper for metals and ceramics. Also make sure the dog tags are coated for sublimation and don't forget to pull the liner off of the print side of the tag. I have forgotten this step once or twice (in a hurry, tape and go and then have to scrap it and start again). I noticed your press time was only 40 seconds. I press dog tags/metals for 70 seconds at 385-400 degrees, firm pressure. There is learing curve to some of this stuff, what works for me, may not work for you. Sublimation is a trial and error process, it takes lots of testing and you use alot of product just starting out. Research and read on these types of forums, you will find a wealth of info.
Sorry to hear things are not going so well. Give me a call. I will be happy to walk you through everything from beginning to end. My calls are forwarded to my cell after hours.
P.S. Did you remove the clear protective coating from the dog tag before sublimating?
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Sorry to hear things are not going so well. Give me a call. I will be happy to walk you through everything from beginning to end. My calls are forwarded to my cell after hours.
P.S. Did you remove the clear protective coating from the dog tag before sublimating?
Well thank you Conde. I use vonage phone here in Haiti and there's bad weather so communication is a lil bad but I will call you asap. The dogtags came ready to be sublimated, there's no protective coating. But my problem is why they sent me the wrong ink for another printer. Anyway appreciate your help we'll keep in touch.
If you are printing onto polyester coated dog tags, you'll find that only sublimation ink will bond correctly with the surface coating. You can use waterslide transfers with conventional inkjet ink, but it a messy process with far inferior results to sublimation.
I have been using sublimation for a few years now on numerous substrates. The colour gamut is not as wide as many other types of ink and you will need a sublimation printer profile to 'correct' the colours, so they output closer to the design on your monitor.
If you are printing onto polyester coated dog tags, you'll find that only sublimation ink will bond correctly with the surface coating. You can use waterslide transfers with conventional inkjet ink, but it a messy process with far inferior results to sublimation.
I have been using sublimation for a few years now on numerous substrates. The colour gamut is not as wide as many other types of ink and you will need a sublimation printer profile to 'correct' the colours, so they output closer to the design on your monitor.
Thanks for the info. I just ordered sublijet I think they'll come with the profile.
Sublijet uses the Powerdriver program instead of an ICC profile. I hope you ordered it along with the ink. Don't forget that when you print with sub ink the print itself will be dull looking, the colors do not look right until it has been pressed, so be prepared for that. If you are using Unisub ID tags I would increase the time to at least 60 seconds. Since there is no protective film on yours I would guess they are Unisub. For other brands 45 seconds will be ok but you may need to back off the pressure if the finish looks dull.
Sublijet uses the Powerdriver program instead of an ICC profile. I hope you ordered it along with the ink. Don't forget that when you print with sub ink the print itself will be dull looking, the colors do not look right until it has been pressed, so be prepared for that. If you are using Unisub ID tags I would increase the time to at least 60 seconds. Since there is no protective film on yours I would guess they are Unisub. For other brands 45 seconds will be ok but you may need to back off the pressure if the finish looks dull.
Thanks Terry. My dogtags are from metaza bought them from blankdogtag.com they don't have protective film over. They gave me a free dirver with the ink. Company instructions are 40sec 400 degree. Anyway I'm waiting for the ink to start playing with it.
I just want to say thanks to everyone for those helpful info.