I have a Tektronix Phaser 740 color laser, with OEM toner, which I will use to transfer to mugs, using Mugs'n more transfer paper.
Now I have not seen many sites that offer mugs for laser printer, most of them say for sublimation inkjet only, and therefore I am limited to a few sources for mugs and only to 11oz mugs !
Am I missing something? Like not understanding completely the concept of sublimation? I do thing I understand the sublimation process, but do I need a mug with a different coating for laser and another for ink jet? or just different transfer paper? I did check dye-sub.org, also coastalbusiness has some information too, but still it is not clear to me. Should I switch to a C88+ with dye sub ink?
I am new to this, and this forum has been of an incredible help to me.
Anyone using laser printer to transfer to mugs?
Thank you
Last edited by marcelolopez; October 21st, 2007 at 07:55 PM.
Thanks Rodney... so I'll stop trying and failing in getting my mugs right.
I trashed about 14 or so already !!
I've been using my kitchen oven, an electric one, then I was told by a Coastal Business Supply that my wrap wasn't pressing well enough.
Yesterday I received a mug press I bought on ebay last week.
Still no luck. I will post later some pictures of my horror gallery (the mugs, of course).
Thank you for moving the thread...
Help Help ...
P.s there is another box of 36 mugs in my living room...besides the half empty box is in my office !!
marcelo...I have been doing dye sub for a long time...but only with inkjet. I am not aware of any color laser with OEM toner doing dye sub. I know of some who are using dye sub toner in their laser printers...but never OEM.
In short I am pretty sure you CANNOT do dye sub with the equipment listed.If I am wrong someone will pull my foot from my mouth
dye sub does require special ink/paper/polymer coated material (or polyester) to take the image.
with inkjets and I assume with lasers..your printed image is dull but when exposed to heat/pressure it will turn out great
Also I checked on your printer and my group is not aware it can be used for dye sub.
The only source I know for dye sub toner for lasers is colorstarink.com and they only have toner carts for some Oki, Ricoh and Konica Minolta. and they cost around 300 per color...so..$1200 or so.
Hello
Not sure if I am helping out or not. If I read and understood right
if your using OEM toner thats not sublimation. Thats laser to hardgoods. (not sure if there is a actual name for it)
I have been reading up on the hardgood papers and OEM toner myself on the DSSI forums.
(DSSI).
Most of them use the VersaTrans or JBL paper. The paper you have has never been mentioned by anyone doing the hardgoods in my research.
Oki lasers are the most popular ones it seems to be used for this type of work.
There are several suppliers listed in the threads of non sub coated mugs. However if your using OEM toner you should be able to use any non coated mug/tile/metal.
The Mugs n'More paper distributed by Coastal (and others) does claim to be designed for using OEM laser toner to transfer to special "laser mugs." I've never tried it myself, and this is the first review that I've heard.
As for finding other sources for these mugs, I've done a bit of searching and all the suppliers seem to be selling the same 11 oz mugs. Could be others, but I haven't found them.
Heres a mug that is suppose to be for laser OEM transfer.
Matte finish mugs for laser The Matte Finish is a glazed mug from China designed for use with OEM laser toners and special transfer sheets for hard goods. The actual dimensions are 11 oz mugs 3" diameter by 3 11/16", 13 oz mugs 3 1/4" diameter by 3 7/8" tall and 15 oz mugs are 3 1/8" by 4 1/2" tall. Please note that these mugs are not coated and not suitable for regular sublimation.
You are correct. The laser OEM and dye sublimation are two completely different processes. The mugs, ink/toners and papers are specific to each process and are not interchangable. You should have the correct mugs and paper. Are you post curing the mugs to harden the toner? What specific problem are you having?
Certain toners work better than others...I know a lot recommend the OKI's. I would give your suppliers a call and discuss your results. They should be able to point you in the right direction.
Thanks you all guys for your answers.
Actually I did print on the mugs with the OEM toner, the problem is that the edges won't get correctly done. I was going to try with a text only mug, but I didn't have time tonight.
With the mug wrap the toner, most of the time, won't transfer to the mug, now with the mug press it does, a Coastal rep told me laser mugs need more pressure than sub mugs.
It just got some kind of texture on the colors, like a random pattern, you can feel it, and is has nothing to do with the mug press, I'll keep trying and post the results.
The pink mug, if you look at it close, it look really nice, smooth, except for the edges. And it is not always in the same place.
Well, I TRULY appreciate your help guys.
Thank you.
Looks to me like the texture of the wrap insert of your mug press.
Something to ponder?
I've been doing OEM toner tiles and mugs for some time and have never had to buy special mugs or tiles. I have on occasion used the sublimation mugs but, that was a time crunch situation and was all I had on hand.
I buy "uncoated" mugs and my tiles come from Lowes.
The edge situation I can only relate to pressure differences to the outer edges of your press. I use wraps personaly. Didn't help much did I?
Bill
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Looks to me like the texture of the wrap insert of your mug press.
Yeah, I come to realize that the wrap is not pressing evenly, or because of the edges of that particular kind of mug (manufacturer) and there is not much I can do, I guess, except not to print colors all the way up to the edges.
Quote:
Originally Posted by patchmaster
Didn't help much did I?
Of course you did help me ! thank you and to all those who spent their time
answering clueless people like me.
Looks to me like the texture of the wrap insert of your mug press.
Something to ponder?
I've been doing OEM toner tiles and mugs for some time and have never had to buy special mugs or tiles. I have on occasion used the sublimation mugs but, that was a time crunch situation and was all I had on hand.
I buy "uncoated" mugs and my tiles come from Lowes.
The edge situation I can only relate to pressure differences to the outer edges of your press. I use wraps personaly. Didn't help much did I?
Bill
Bill,
Mind sharing which printer and which transfer paper you are using for oem laser toner mugs and tiles?
I use paper produced by "The Magic Touch USA". They have the best laser paper on the market and I have printed hunderds of mugs and other "hard" items using their paper. The site also contains a "compatibility check" where you can ebter your laser mfg and model number. The system will tell you exactly what paper to use for the toners in your printer.
The member with the unprinted edge issue, increase the pressure, don't print any closer than 3/8" top and bottom of the mug. I have to use spacers to CENTER the mug, 15 or 11 ounce in my Hotronix press. Using a sleve of Teflon between the presses rubber element and the mug helps a little also.
I use paper produced by "The Magic Touch USA". They have the best laser paper on the market and I have printed hunderds of mugs and other "hard" items using their paper. The site also contains a "compatibility check" where you can ebter your laser mfg and model number. The system will tell you exactly what paper to use for the toners in your printer.
The member with the unprinted edge issue, increase the pressure, don't print any closer than 3/8" top and bottom of the mug. I have to use spacers to CENTER the mug, 15 or 11 ounce in my Hotronix press. Using a sleve of Teflon between the presses rubber element and the mug helps a little also.
Ken
Thank you for your input.
I was having some (just some) success trying a lower temperature in my press, and the colors now look much better.
To add to the confusion, Coastal Business web site states that the paper, Mugs n' More have to be pressed at 250F for 120 seconds, then the instructions that come with Mugs 'n More says 400F for 180 seconds.
Laser mugs question 
Re: Laser mugs question 
