I ordered some blank aluminum license plates from Onesource Coil Coaters i've had a go at sublimating them but the image seems to look cracked, i am pressing them at 200c (400f) for about 40 seconds, i haven't tried yet but i think if i pre press them it might not happen as i've added bits on to one i had all ready pressed an image on to and the added part seems to be perfect, does anyone have and tips on pressing plates or know what my problems is and how to solve it.
Trying to picture what you mean by cracked. I can't think of anything that would make it looked cracked. However, 40 seconds seems way to short a time to me. I do most metals for at least 1 minute.
I just looked up an ebay auction for that company and they suggest 65 seconds at 375 f. Because of the low temp they suggest it leads me to believe it might be a soft coating. In this case I would try what they suggest and maybe even up the time a little but at 375f not 400f.
If this does not help you might try to upload a picture of the problem area so we can see what it looks like.
I ordered some blank aluminum license plates from Onesource Coil Coaters
I am assuming this company is in New Zealand - where you are located. I have never heard of them in the US. I am not really sure why your's came out cracked and I don't want to infer that this company has bad products. But, you need to be kinda careful where you get your sublimation blanks. If the polyester coating is not applied even and with enough, your sublimation will not come out correctly. Most of the time the prints will have some bad spots - not usually cracked. I would call Onesource and ask them with the idea time, temperature and pressure is for that product. I would also let them know that you are experiencing cracking. They might have just gotten a bad batch of product from their supplier and it is not their fault. Either way, I would start off with asking them for assistance.
Thanks for your help guys i will give it a try later, i can't find any suppliers of sublimation products in new zealand, oncsource is in florida Onesource Coil Coaters, LLC. Home Page TMPRO found some instructions for me i couldn't find any on the wesite, i will try a couple and post some photos of the results.
Here in New Zealand we are only aloud to use official plates on the road (ones made by the goverment) the ones i make are for show cars, so they are only used indoors or for a show in place of the original plates.
Here in New Zealand we are only aloud to use official plates on the road (ones made by the goverment) the ones i make are for show cars, so they are only used indoors or for a show in place of the original plates.
The plates i have for sublimation are USA size since most are for US show cars, i haven't got any frames for them.
I am new to the world of sublimation. I tried to sublimate my first license plate and it didn't work. I am using an epson c88 printer w/ dura brite ink cartridges, true pix classic transfer paper, heat press on 400F for 40 sec. The tag comes out yellowish and the image is still on the paper. Am I not supposed to use the ink that comes with the printer? I do have the bottled ink for the bulk ink system. I appreciate the feedback...
ok guys. questions. I have changed the cartridges in my epson c88 to the ink refill system. the computer keeps telling me that the printer doesnt recognize cartridges and use epson cartridges. I cant get the red light to go off. I have tried every thing from reinstalling the ink refill system and turning off the printer to reset chips--nothing works. Do you think the printer head is damaged?
you should have a fly out warning telling you that its not the correct carts,, you should be able to continue,,, have you pressed the trash can button on you c 88,, if you have more problems badalou here on the forum worked for epson he has the info for you I am sure..
I don't like dye sub for any product that is exposed to sun. Dysub is not UV friendly and will fade too soon for me
This is not a problem if you use an overcoat spray like "Frog Juice". The inks are not fading actually but rather evaporating.
Sublimation inks react to a low temperature like 75 degrees and up. For instance, I could make a sublimation print, lay it on top of a substrate and wait a week at 75 degrees and a faint image has transfered. We use higher temps to get the job done faster. So sealing the finished product will minimize the evaporation process.
I have tested tiles using this spray and so far it has been in a field with direct sunlight for 1 year 3 months and no sign of fading. I did leave one spot on the tile with no coating and it looks like a red stain.
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Roy - support@alphasupply.com Alpha Supply Company - Dye Sub Tips
Heat Press Equipment and Supplies - 1-800-908-9916
for sub ink...where are you located...in US you will have to buy from a sawgrass distributor...either sublijet or artianium or from TOG who is in a lawsuit with Sawgrass...all others have shut down. If you are out of US..be careful as there some really poor 'sublimation' inks that dont work. go with the ones that work...when you buy cheap...often you get cheap!