Hey Everyone. VERY new to all of this, so please bear with me.
I would like to get started in the dye sub business, but not really sure on things yet. I've been reading a lot lately trying to figure what things I would need to get started. I know for sure that I need a good 16 x 20 heat press, transfer paper, ect. I have a printer which is an Epson r2400. Will this printer be sufficient for doing the job? I also own a GX-24 vinyl cutter and have Corel X3 as a graphics program to work out of. Not sure if the cutter has any bearing in this venture.....but thought I would add it in just in case.
I would like to be able to do it all!LOL! Shirts, mugs, stickers, hats, plates, ect. So if anybody can advise me as to what I would need to get started.....it would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance. ~Curt~
The questions were not stupid...I have been in Rhinestone training sessions and not online...I am not familiar with your printer but I would suggest you NOT use it IF it has more than 4 colors...you do not need more than CYMK for sublimation...the extra two or four colors for some printers are excessive to your needs...besides I did not like the maintenance on the Epson and the clogging issues that WILL crop up. I have converted to the Ricoh GX7000 which has four carts with almost as much ink as the CIS for Epsons..I think you can buy a GX7000 AND sublimation inks from Conde for just a bit more than just the inks for the Epson..around $1100..it will print 11x17 out of the box or with the extra tray...($149) you can do 13x19.. OR you can get the GX5050 for a bit less...it is faster than the GX7000 but only does 8.5x14. your software is sufficient for this...the vinyl cutter is not needed for sublimation.
There are no stupid questions when you're first getting started. I've only been doing dye sub since September and it's a great way to do full-color on all kinds of different substrates. I'm not sure about Epson printers, I've got a Ricoh GX7000 and have had no issues so far. A clamshell heat press is fine for flat items like t-shirts, tiles and mousepads, but you will need a cap press for hats. Options for mugs include a mug press or a convection oven with mug wraps. I'm not doing mugs or caps yet, but I will probably will do them in the future depending on customer demand. If you are serious about shirts, you should definitely look at the wide-format options like the GX7000. It makes a huge difference on shirts when you can print 11x17 instead of only 8.5x11. My advice would be to figure out exactly what you want to do with dye sub so you won't invest in equipment that you are not using. Be sure you are using the printer regularly. Don't let it sit idle for long periods because the ink will clog the print heads. I print at least every other day and have not had a problem yet. Anyway, sorry about the rambling. This forum is an amazing source of information and is the main reason I got started in dye sub.
Hi Curtis,
I would highly recommend the Epson 78xx 24"
Then you will never have to monkey around with a CIS and you can buy your ink by the liter and operate more efficiently and in the long run, more cost-effectively. That size will serve you as you grow in the future as well.
Good luck.
Also, another thing to keep in mind is what type of images will you be producing?
Vector art - Logos, mascots, team jerseys
Art rendering and/or photography - Very passionate about their colors.
Vector art you will only need CMYK for optimal results.
If you plan on pleasing galleries and artists with your renderings....you will need at least 7 colors.
TRUST ME....I have tested workflows by many who print CMYK and the difference between 4 colors and 7 colors or more is night and day in the transition areas.
This area can make all the difference between getting a gallery / museum contract or not.
Define your target market. If you desire major artists you will need a very profiled workflow. If you desire team jerseys business..a 4 color generic profile workflow should get the job done.
Don't forget, you can please vector artists with 7 colors....I have yet to see a renown watercolor artist pleased with four colors.
I just purchased an Epson 7880 primarily to be used for sublimation printing. I was actually looking at focusing on jerseys. After reading the thread, is it just a waste to use an 8 color printer solely for sublimation printing?
I just purchased an Epson 7880 primarily to be used for sublimation printing. I was actually looking at focusing on jerseys. After reading the thread, is it just a waste to use an 8 color printer solely for sublimation printing?
For the sublimation printing of jerseys with vector art...yes it is.
If you are doing jerseys, you can profile and configure a 7880 with dual CMYK for lightning fast printing.
I just purchased an Epson 7880 primarily to be used for sublimation printing. I was actually looking at focusing on jerseys. After reading the thread, is it just a waste to use an 8 color printer solely for sublimation printing?
I have heard this both ways. In talking to Sawgrass ink specialist you could have some gradient issues with a few of the colors on a 4 color CMYK. Also realize you will not use more ink on 8 color then 4 color. Your start up cost would be less but your ink consumption, which is the real cost one should be concerned about doing jerseys, would not be different.
I have heard this both ways. In talking to Sawgrass ink specialist you could have some gradient issues with a few of the colors on a 4 color CMYK. Also realize you will not use more ink on 8 color then 4 color. Your start up cost would be less but your ink consumption, which is the real cost one should be concerned about doing jerseys, would not be different.
That is correct! You don't use less ink because you only use 4 colours. You use more of those 4, that's all. In my RIP I turn Light Light Black off as I don't really need it. I keep that nozzle clean with a nozzle check.
My main point of suggesting the 7880 is so you don't have to bother with that CIS mess.
Hey Eze,
I can't speak for Ricoh as I have no experience of it, but I've been quite happy with the Epson.
Well, we do all sorts of projects and handle them in different ways. Sometimes we print on ready-made shirts like Vapor. Other times we will design things and sew them ourselves.
Printing all-over prints, over seams, pockets, zippers or other design details:
In this case I draft the pattern pieces in Illustrator, then put the artwork on them while they're there. Then output them to the printer. I arrange them in my print layout so as to be as economical as possible with the fabric. Then I press that whole piece on a rectangle of fabric and then cut them out.
(For non-sewing people) When sewing fabric you need seam allowance (the parts you join together or hem). In order to have an image "match" across the seams we need to take into account the seam allowance. You can add seam allowance in Illustrator and print an outline (a cutting line that gets printed right on the fabric). It is advantageous to do all your artwork and then add seam allowance at the end. It is easier to match and visualize your artwork this way. You can make a copy of your blank pattern draft with a seam allowance and then copy just the seam allowance on top of your working .ai file at the end. This is good if you're just doing one piece of unique art on each t-shirt for example. You don't want to have keep reworking the seam allowance each time.
Placement Prints:
If I'm printing a smaller placement print on custom items and it doesn't go over any construction details, then I draw the pattern draft, either by hand or with Illustrator, cut the fabric piece out first, press it with the artwork, then sew it together.
Work arounds if your press is too small:
Design the apparel around your limitations. If you have something too big (like a ladies dress for example or a coat) sometimes, the pattern can be designed to fit with what you have. Sleeves can be split, seams added. In other words, break the pattern into smaller pieces. You'll see designer have all kinds of bits and pieces joined together, more often than not. It's a bit trickier of course, with more seams when matching your artwork but it's extremely cool.
That's generally the way I approach our projects. I always try different things out. I just made a head to toe all-over Spiderman printed suit for a guy. The artwork didn't match up very well in some places as I did not draft that pattern, it was purchased on the net and drafted by a non-drafter. It worked out quite well really. It pushed our envelope, so to speak! I will post a picture when I get one. I'm still waiting!
That was enlightening. What a joy to be back on the forum.
I'm completely sold on the wide format sublimation side of things now. I've been throwing this over in my mind for ages now. I was preparing to make a purchase for a Richo but my breaks are on know, It seems that with the setup you have the options are almost limitless ... almost and sounds like theres fun to be had as well.
How do you deal with the wide format sublimation paper side of things. Are there many suppliers in the U.S??? I'm in the UK so I'm not sure on availability over here.
Did you convert your printer to sublimation or purchase it like that? How easy will it be to convert an epson that may have already been using the standard inks?
My apologies for the wave of questions.
Many Thanks
Ezekiel
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Converting an Epson (new or existing) isn't difficult. New is better as no cleaning will be necessary. Simply load up your inks and the rest is software and profiling.
Dye-Sub paper in the U.S is widely available.
Yes....wide format is alot of fun (at least for us). You can always go smaller with bigger but you can't go bigger with smaller.
Ohhh...I'm not answering for Susan, just doing my hourly browsing of the forum.
Getting started in dye sub. 
Re: Getting started in dye sub. 
Re: Getting started in dye sub. 
