• First, make sure you have your heat press temp. set to 350*F (177*C)
• You want to use a electrical spray gun for applying the pre-treatment. Over here we use Wagner paint guns. This is the best way to get a constant and even spray on your shirt.
• We found here to be the best results was to press your shirt for about 30 seconds before applying the pre-treatment. This way you press all the fibers flat and get some of the moisture out of the shirt.
• After pressing the shirt apply the pre-treatment by evenly coating the shirt in a back and forth motion starting from the top of the shirt and working towards the bottom. The amount of pre-treatment applied my very from different brands of shirts. The key to the proper amount is you want the shirt damp not dripping wet. It will be more then a fine mist but not so much that the pre-treatment is dripping off the shirt.
• After you are done with the pre-treament, you want to have a small foam roller, anywhere from 4" to 6" long and 1" in diameter. This roller is used to push down any fibers in the shirt and push the pre-treatment into the shirt before pressing. When doing this just roll the shirt in one direction from the top of the shirt to the bottom.
• After that is done you will want to hover the heat press over the shirt for one minute. After that minute is up raise up the heat press and let one of the vapors come off the shirt. After that you want to do a full pressure press for one more minute. Once that is complete you will be ready to print your shirt.
• This may sound like a lot, but the whole process only takes about 3 minutes total.
actually the whole process should only take less than a minute. usually 30 seconds.
Quote:
• First, make sure you have your heat press temp. set to 350*F (177*C)
330 F is better. You will risk scorching the dye on the garment if it is at 350.
Quote:
• We found here to be the best results was to press your shirt for about 30 seconds before applying the pre-treatment. This way you press all the fibers flat and get some of the moisture out of the shirt.
You don't need to do this if your already using a sponge or roller to get down the fibers.
Quote:
• After that is done you will want to hover the heat press over the shirt for one minute. After that minute is up raise up the heat press and let one of the vapors come off the shirt. After that you want to do a full pressure press for one more minute. Once that is complete you will be ready to print your shirt.
This is way to long and time consuming and again you will risk scorching the dye on the shirt and leaving a box outline on your shirt. After spraying you want to clamp down with a medium pressure for 5 seconds with parchment paper then take the paper off and clamp down for an additional 10 seconds. The shirt should be dry before printing on. Times may vary depending on your location. If there is a lot of humidity it may take longer to dry your garment.
I've heard conflicting information on silicone parchment paper. The silicone can transfer to the t-shirt and cause adhesion problems with the ink. That was what T-Jet said anyway.
I printed samples and custom samples for US Screen for 2 1/2 years. I stopped using non silicon because it ripped up the fibers causing fibrilation on the shirts. Especially noticeable on solid colored images. I washed samples every week multiple times and never saw any problems. Many customers are doing it now and are also using a silicon sheet that can be used over and over again and never wrinkles. This also beats mixing up your non silicon and silicon papers. You should test it out and see what you think.
The non silicone is used to dry the pretreatment, the silicon is used after the print. If you use non silicon after print it sticks. Non silicon doesn't leave a residue tht the ink can't adhere to.
thanks Billy. Where can you get these silicone sheets? I have silicone baking mats, not sure if they are similar or the same as the sheets you mention.
Zhenjie, this is one of the places I have ordered them from Matfer - 320201 Exopap, Here is the place for I use for the quillon http://www.instawares.com/qg251624-m...-18205.0.7.htm, which is the uncoated sheets for pretreatment. John is right, the uncoated works well for the pretreatment, because if you use the silicone treated, it might effect the ink adhering right. The silicone coated works for curing the inks, as the silicone also helps seal the ink as well.
__________________
Always do right; this will gratify some people and astonish the rest. ~~~Mark Twain BobbieLee www.brightlittlebeginnings.com
I am not sure if they ship internationally Zhenjie, but if you search for those brand names, you should be able to find someone that does. I know there are several vendors that carry each.
__________________
Always do right; this will gratify some people and astonish the rest. ~~~Mark Twain BobbieLee www.brightlittlebeginnings.com
Cheers. I have a freight forwarder in the USA who can ship them to me. Here we use silicone coated baking paper from the distributors or teflon sheets. Quillon paper is not an option here as its not imported into the country.
I forgot to state in my post above that the first link is the silicone treated parchemnt, that is coated on both sides, and then the second one is the uncoated quillon parchment sheets. I forgot to mention which one that first link was for
__________________
Always do right; this will gratify some people and astonish the rest. ~~~Mark Twain BobbieLee www.brightlittlebeginnings.com
Cheers. I have a freight forwarder in the USA who can ship them to me. Here we use silicone coated baking paper from the distributors or teflon sheets. Quillon paper is not an option here as its not imported into the country.
Would uncoated baking parchment work the same as quillon?
Basic Pretreatment Info 
