Ok, we've been printing color and everything has been working fine. I put the white ink in and began trying to print an underbase, and it comes out a redish black hue. It's not white at all. Can anyone help me on this?
We just got some new Phoenix white ink from Wahkeena. It is awesome. It is our new white ink. It almost glows in the bucket.
Is the ink getting a fade from the ink in the shirt? I printed white on black and the first pfp it looked grey. not that I'm an expert, by any means, but if I can help I want to.
We just got some new Phoenix white ink from Wahkeena. It is awesome. It is our new white ink. It almost glows in the bucket.
Is the ink getting a fade from the ink in the shirt? I printed white on black and the first pfp it looked grey. not that I'm an expert, by any means, but if I can help I want to.
The ink you are referring to is a plastisol (vinyl based) ink used for screen printing. The inks used in digital garment printers are water based inks that are formulated to flow through the tiny nozzles in the print heads of the digital printers.
Thanks all, I finally got the white ink flowing. I had to use a syringe to pull it through. It's just one thing after another.
Now I'm frustrated because the white ink looks so vibrant and great, and then when I heat press it, it fades it out quite a bit. It doesn't look near the quality I was hoping for. I think my pretreatment is good, as I've washed the shirts and the ink doesn't flake off. How in the hell do you get the white to look vibrant on black?? I'm using Vo2 inks from SWF Mesa. Also, is there anyway to not get a shiny finish on the fabric of the shirt after heat pressing a pretreated shirt? Can I put the heat press just above the white ink and let it sit for a while to cure, instead of clamping it all the way down?
The pressure I use on my shirts is just barely closing. Very light pressure. You dont need any pressure on your press as it will make the ink fade more, and can make it to where the fibers show through the print. Also what are you putting on top of your shirt when pretreating? Are you using the un coated parchment paper, the Quillan paper ? Using the right paper makes a difference. Also if you are using a teflon sheet, that will also leave a shiny look to the garment. I use the quillan paper when I dry the pretreatment, and use the silicone treated paper when I cure the shirt.
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Always do right; this will gratify some people and astonish the rest. ~~~Mark Twain BobbieLee
The pressure I use on my shirts is just barely closing. Very light pressure. You dont need any pressure on your press as it will make the ink fade more, and can make it to where the fibers show through the print. Also what are you putting on top of your shirt when pretreating? Are you using the un coated parchment paper, the Quillan paper ? Using the right paper makes a difference. Also if you are using a teflon sheet, that will also leave a shiny look to the garment. I use the quillan paper when I dry the pretreatment, and use the silicone treated paper when I cure the shirt.
Man, thank you soo much for replying Sunnydayz. You've been a life saver. I think I'm using Onion Paper? It's kind of yellowish in color. Do you know where I can get this other paper? Are you're white on black prints vibrant Sunny? The ink looks so good until I cure it. I'm going to lighten the pressure on the press, and try that. I have one week till market, and I have to get this down. Does that quillan paper, silicone paper duo you use leave the garment vibrant and the cloth not shiny? Oh, since your helping me Sunny, can you tell me when I should use 50/50 pretreatment and when I should be using full strength? Thank you soooo much for your help!
Using both of these I get no shiny look to the garments at all. They both work really well, and the prices are really good on both papers. It took some research finding both of these places when I first started using them.
I never dilute my pretreatment, ever I do always lightly mist my shirt with distilled water first before spraying pretreatment. This keeps the pretreatment from leaving a box. I bought a spray bottle from a beauty supply place where they have the ones that have a really fine mist. This is so that it sprays really evenly.
If you need any other help just let me know. Also it does help to let the press hover over the print for a minute before curing to help set the ink a little before curing. Its not necessary, but it can help the print a little if you have the extra time.
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Always do right; this will gratify some people and astonish the rest. ~~~Mark Twain BobbieLee
You might also want to hover the heat press for 30 seconds or so over the graphic 1/2" before closing it. This will help with the fading / muting during the heat press process.
How long do you heat press in addition to the hovering. Will this help keep all the colors brighter. I am having the same problem. The printed garment looks great until it is heat pressed. Then it dulls. Please help.
What heat and time are you using when curing Kim ? I cure my shirts at 330 for 90 seconds on lights, and 180 seconds on darks, with very very light pressure.
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Always do right; this will gratify some people and astonish the rest. ~~~Mark Twain BobbieLee
Just a quick quizz we can not get Quillon paper here in Aus and we just use Baking paper a non stick one it work fine ofr all aspects of it. I would like to tyr this Quillon paper if someone would be so kind to send me over a couple of sheets. If it works better then I would look at bring a fare bit in for myself and others. Is the another name for it that I do not know about???
Also when pretreating I always brush my T's afet rthe water mist to get it to soak in and also brush again after the pretreat has been applied then let it saok in for 2-3mins before pressing. A double press works well too 1st light then change paper and press again for around 15 seconds with pressure to flatten fibres not too much pressure though.
What pressure do you use on the heat press for the pretreatment. I cure at 330 for whites twice for 60 seconds each time or 120 seconds total. I cure at 340 for colors 60 seconds three times or 180 seconds. Perhaps I am using too much pressure for the curing.
White Ink Help 
