can sombody share pictures or plans of a height adjustable
platen system ? i tried 2 different types , but none of them really worked as supposed...
thanks
Yes, I shared this video in the 1800 forum... Problem with most of these designs is that they are heavy and the motor on the printer will burn out eventually.
thanx, i been watching your video a couple of times a few weeks ago , i even dropped you a mail , because i dont fully understand how your construction works. i tried to rebuild it , but my version is not stable, it always tilts, can you shoot some more detailed pics please?
thanx, i been watching your video a couple of times a few weeks ago , i even dropped you a mail , because i dont fully understand how your construction works. i tried to rebuild it , but my version is not stable, it always tilts, can you shoot some more detailed pics please?
thnx
Sorry, I haven't read my mail... I'm bad. The video is not mine and I have not built one... I simply found it on the web... But thinking about it, I would say that the side boards that have the bolts in them should be snug against the bottom and top boards while you screw the shaft through... The boards should be wide enough to keep contact with the bottom and top boards. This would keep pressure against the top and bottom and keep the assembly from leaning... Just my guess....
Bob ?;O)
__________________
I only dream of being a DTG printer, during my waking hours I'm a car wash...
I used two dowels between the tray and the platen. These were long enough that for thin items like Tee's you just placed a few large washers over the dowel then slid then the platen back on. For printing thicker items like a mouse pad you remove the washers. (There are pics already in this thread showing the system)
in my opinion the metal lab jacks are far to heavy, i cant see the pf motor lasting to long with that ontop as well a the shirt platen, you can find lighter polycarbonate lab jacks but they are alot of dollars.
You could put notches in the bottom board and could easily adjust this design by just moving the F1 side into a notch to adjust the size... Removing the need for the torque screw would significantly reduce the weight... KISS...
Bob
__________________
I only dream of being a DTG printer, during my waking hours I'm a car wash...
Most of the platens made for dtg's are either aluminum or Plexiglas. The ones for the brother printer are Plexiglas and have four adjustment screws on them. I believe the one for the anajet is aluminum. Although I could be wrong Mine for my HM1 are all aluminum, but do not have adjustment because my bed has a auto height adjustment with laser on it.
anyways hope this info helps. I do think the weight of the platen is going to greatly effect the way it moves.
__________________
Always do right; this will gratify some people and astonish the rest. ~~~Mark Twain BobbieLee www.brightlittlebeginnings.com
You could put notches in the bottom board and could easily adjust this design by just moving the F1 side into a notch to adjust the size... Removing the need for the torque screw would significantly reduce the weight... KISS...
Bob
but removing the torque screw also means loosing a really accurate adjustability. so far i have found a 4 mm gap between printhead and garment will give the best results.
gonna try out some plexiglas for next , to reduce the weight
height adjustable platen , any ideas ? 
Mine for my HM1 are all aluminum, but do not have adjustment because my bed has a auto height adjustment with laser on it. 
