Not a bad price... Another site charges $18.00... Couldn't find it elsewhere... Many service manuals are available online... They just aren't available from Epson...
Bob ?;O)
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I only dream of being a DTG printer, during my waking hours I'm a car wash...
i had already found the pay ones when i posted the topic, i just cant bring myself to pay for one, im so tight i only breath in......... i only want it to locate any hidden screws when stripping it as although its a tarted up 1800 im fairly sure there will be a hidden screw or two not in the same place as the 1800 as some of the layout of it looks very different, power switches etc...... the 1900 arrives today so i will soon find out.
i had already found the pay ones when i posted the topic, i just cant bring myself to pay for one, im so tight i only breath in......... i only want it to locate any hidden screws when stripping it as although its a tarted up 1800 im fairly sure there will be a hidden screw or two not in the same place as the 1800 as some of the layout of it looks very different, power switches etc...... the 1900 arrives today so i will soon find out.
Steve,
Certainly understand.... I hate paying for something that SHOULD be available to everyone. I am interested in both the 1400 and the 1900 since they are current models in production and will likely move into new models as the older ones pass. I'm especially interested in taking advantage of the various mechanisms instead of trying to disable them.
You've already seen my comments on building one where the printer moves on a pinion rack instead of moving the platen. I'll share anything I might learn. I have a 1400 that I won on Ebay for $50.00... I know it has issues but I'm into it for the learning process of building my first DTG... After that... NO HOLDS BAR!
Bob ?;O)
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I only dream of being a DTG printer, during my waking hours I'm a car wash...
Do you think the PF-Motor is able to move the whole print-engine over a shirt or do you plan to replace it with a stronger one?
I plan to move everything that is not necessary to table... This means moving the power supply and perhaps other circuitry... I will likely cut off excess framing... I won't know till I attempt it but I believe the results will be less weight then trying to move the whole platen assembly + shirt... Imagine only the framing necessary to carry the print heads/motor, necessary sensors and the PF-Motor... Should be pretty light. Still waiting for my 1400 to arrive... I'm getting a bit anxious.
There are special rails that provide almost zero resistance... I plan on using these along with a pinion rail to move the printer assembly (what's left of it when I'm done.)
I have discussed using a rotary sensor to add a second motor to carry the heavy load if necessary but I am optimistic that my plan is viable enough. I should at least try it.
One thing I like about this idea is that it might be possible to place multiple shirts on platens and the printer will treat each like a new paper feed if setup properly. Just a thought.
Bob ?;O)
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I only dream of being a DTG printer, during my waking hours I'm a car wash...
...Imagine only the framing necessary to carry the print heads/motor, necessary sensors and the PF-Motor... Should be pretty light.
There are special rails that provide almost zero resistance... I plan on using these along with a pinion rail to move the printer assembly (what's left of it when I'm done.)
;O)
The more i think about it ,the more i like this idea.
But how can you get your printer back to the starting position after it has finished printing?
All the Diy-Projects i have seen sofar , use a platen whichy you lift after printing and push it back by your hands, this wont work with a moving printer mounted on rails. I guess you need a extra controller board or a hacked firmware ?
The more i think about it ,the more i like this idea.
But how can you get your printer back to the starting position after it has finished printing?
All the Diy-Projects i have seen sofar , use a platen whichy you lift after printing and push it back by your hands, this wont work with a moving printer mounted on rails. I guess you need a extra controller board or a hacked firmware ?
It's been three weeks and I'm still waiting for my 1400 to arrive from NY... I'm a little anxious but it should be here soon. I'm wondering if there is a printer code to get the paper to move backwards. If not I plan to have a wheel which will be used to create tension on a belt. The wheel could have a lever to loosen the belt and allow me to disengage the motor and manually push it back... I will give it more thought once I can actually strip the unit down and get a better feeling for it. I've created detailed drawings and have found sources for the parts. I'll let you know how things are progressing. Rest assured, I will beat this problem.
Bob ?;O)
__________________
I only dream of being a DTG printer, during my waking hours I'm a car wash...
i had already found the pay ones when i posted the topic, i just cant bring myself to pay for one, im so tight i only breath in......... i only want it to locate any hidden screws when stripping it as although its a tarted up 1800 im fairly sure there will be a hidden screw or two not in the same place as the 1800 as some of the layout of it looks very different, power switches etc...... the 1900 arrives today so i will soon find out.
Hi Steve, I have the R1900 service manual and have been using it to strip down an Epson R1900 for the very purpose of converting it to a DTG printer. I have already constructed a linear drive system in a solid metal framework designed to allow the whole print mechanism to move above/over a fixed table/platen. However I am finding it very difficult to get around the electronic-mechanical designs built into the printer. For instance you will have to remove all of the various paper-feed mechanisms built into the system in order to allow clearance beneath the print head.
For instance you will have to remove all of the various paper-feed mechanisms built into the system in order to allow clearance beneath the print head.
I'm wondering what this means but there are photos of an 1800 where the creator placed the whole paper feed assembly on top of the printer.... This doesn't sound very weight conscious but he got the job done. He must have moved the PF switch... One thing I do understand is that on the 1900 there is a rotory sensor that must remain intact. Perhaps this is all you will need. I for one am very interested in your progress. Please share your lessons learned.
Bob ?;O)
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I only dream of being a DTG printer, during my waking hours I'm a car wash...
I'm wondering what this means but there are photos of an 1800 where the creator placed the whole paper feed assembly on top of the printer.... This doesn't sound very weight conscious but he got the job done. He must have moved the PF switch... One thing I do understand is that on the 1900 there is a rotory sensor that must remain intact. Perhaps this is all you will need. I for one am very interested in your progress. Please share your lessons learned.
Bob ?;O)
Hi Bob,
weight is not my primary concern, besides the print mechanism is only about 5-6kg even with the cis system included. My main design guidelines are
1. small footprint to maximum print size ratio (the R1900 will print up to 329 *1000mm)
2. Portability (able to be carried and moved easily by 1 person)
3. Robust, reliable construction in a sleek clean housing