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Epson R1900 DTG thorough documentation, photo, and video forum

507K views 1.1K replies 152 participants last post by  epsom  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This thread is for the purpose of deep documentation of the R1900 DIYDTG build. We welcome anybody that has an input to add, no egos here. Special thanks to the team that made the other DIYDTGs possible.

Admin note: this project was never completed. If you need help building a DIYDTG, please read through the active thread here: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/diy-dtg/t120740.html
 
#387 ·
This video shows the removal of the drive rod from the Epson R1900 in preparation for the cutting of the frame and drive rod. You will have to flex the left side of the case a little and pop it out then you release the right clip as shown in the last video. You can then pull it out with ease.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03EHAqAQvfE[/media]
 

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#394 · (Edited)
I'll try to get a video up tomorrow. But believe me, it's on the money... you know why you should believe me? because the dumpster in the parking lot doesn't have a 1400 in it.

At the time of the modification, I didn't feel that the timing outside of startup errors would matter for that part. If it is 16 times faster, it doesn't mean anything in this big picture.
 
#399 ·
Ok now we are going to mark the body so we can cut it up in to smaller parts. We will mark the body with a sharpie and then cut it with a hacksaw. I want to state that this is where a lot of people do there own thing and i have done just that. I decided to keep it as close to the original for both video purpose and testing purpose. I will be experimenting on making this smaller in the future and maybe elimination all together with a few simple electronic parts. Just yesterday I saw a design from shirts456 that I want to try that totally eliminates the gears! Sounds exciting!

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1V1fW7BbXQ[/media]
 

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#401 ·
Ok this is a fun no brain power part. We are going to pry a lot of unneeded stuff off the ASF plastic. Just take your screwdriver and follow the video and photos. In the end you will need a philips screwdriver to remove the metal rod on the underside of the unit. Save this as we will be using it in the near future. Now off to make the cut!

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTO528EDVwg[/media]
 

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#403 ·
Making the cut. Now you are going to take a hacksaw or any saw you see proper and start cutting the ASF into three parts. You will need the two sides for our project and the middle for a measurement. I found the plastic to cut very easy and took no time at all. One thing I did have to do is sand the sides down a little as a hack saw is not the straightest cutting saw in the world.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VETxnt0KO74[/media]
 

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#408 ·
Here we see the parts cut apart for the first time. We will keep the left and the right and in the future use the middle to measure to cut the rod. I have decided at this point to not cut the parts down anymore as i have plenty of room for them in the design. My intentions here is to give enough info to make it work and letting each person make mods as they see necessary. I will be looking closely at this in the future to see how i can cut it down to almost nothing or eliminate it with electronics.


[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8i3Vk10H3c[/media]
 

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#410 ·
In this video we are going to mark the rod, show how I sanded the two half's and talk about cutting the rod. In the next video i will of cut the rod. I mention that we will do a measurement of the old middle to establish the correct size of the second cut to the rod. This measurement will be different for everyone relative to where you did your cut and how wide your cut was. So what I am saying is use your own measurement here.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoSEjcKWFF4[/media]
 

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#411 ·
Ok this video is about seeing the first cut and measuring for the second cut. In this video we will measure the middle of what is left of the ASF plastic and cut that much off of the ASF rod. This will leave the proper amount to be assembled back together into the final reconfiguration.


[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfDHJ6mROZ0[/media]
 

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#414 ·
Good job man!

Today i went to see my printer and has small problem with the ciss so i leave it to technical service,i hgope monday or tuesday i will get it.

Do u know who make the ekprint?1 guy told me he could crack that software.i am not for cracking but if someone from here makes it,they should put better security maybe.
 
#419 ·
Ok we are going to put the left side together and put in the sensor to see how everything fits. Oops the parts are a little long, so I will take a little off of the left rod to make a better fit. We will refit in the next video.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75Y4LsnZahE[/media]
 
#425 ·
The skateboard system by design is in fact a 1 to 1 ratio. The middle wheels do not matter as long as the surface touch is exactly the same. Too much pressure on either side could change the ratio ever so slightly. This is my version 1.0 so I can understand and learn. Version 2.0 will be direct drive and be leaning toward the art world. It will have some serious mods and a lot of them will apply to the DTG world also. I promise to keep up with the videos and be fully open with everything. I believe in open source projects.
 
#426 ·
In this video we again test fit the parts together. Since we are happy with the fit we can now cut down the 1/4 threaded rod done to a 1 1/2 inch piece.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deZGFSAispU[/media]
 

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#429 ·
I like what I see. I have few questions.

What is the normal state of the sensor?

Does it not need to be tripped as long as paper is thought to be in the printer? Example trip paper present, not tripped no paper?

Or as you have it trip on the way in and trip on the way out?

Have you printed with this configuration?
 
#428 ·
In this video we take the 1 1/2 inch 1/4" rod we cut and dry fit it into the two half's of the drive rod. You can see it is loose so we need to add some glue. I personally used a hot glue gun and it worked fine.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHEML96VF3w[/media]
 

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#430 ·
it's my dtg 1390 bought from conpany before know thsi dtg diy possibility.

when the L bracket is inside the PE sensor it's like there is no paper and when it isn't it's like paper inside, i can't give you the good place cause in this model the pe is front off the shaft drive ...

but i think to place it you need to put it inside when the tray is completly inside , and one before the end of your paper size.

take the distance between the originale palce of PE and head print.

Regarding T dozer V2 it's 6.35 mm

check the pitures it talk better than me.
 

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